Las Cascadas
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Midway to Ensenada, on Llanquihue’s eastern shore, bucolic Las Cascadas sits precariously on a mudflow from looming Volcán Osorno; its primary assets are its black-sand beaches and broad vistas of Osorno. Bike touring companies often follow this route south to the village of Ensenada, the gateway to Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales and junction to Puerto Varas.
Accommodations and Food
Where the pavement ends at the south end of town, forested Camping Las Cascadas (tel. 064/247177 message only, US$12 for up to five people) has shady sites near the lake. The only noncamping budget accommodation (it also serves meals) is friendly Hostería Irma (tel. 064/396227, US$6 pp with shared bath), one kilometer south of town toward Ensenada, which has a certain decrepit charm.
Getting There
Buses from Puerto Octay are more frequent than they used to be—four per day, at 11 a.m., noon, and 4 and 7 p.m.—instead of just one. If, as rumored for years, the pavement should finally reach Ensenada, there may be links farther south as well, but for the time being it’s another 22 kilometers that involves walking, hitching, or cycling (this is a popular mountain-bike route).
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Chile, 2nd edition
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