Accommodations and Food
At Sector Correntoso, Conaf’s Camping Pangal (US$4 for 1–2 persons, US$8 for 3–4) has 13 wooded sites with reasonable privacy but only two toilets and (cold) showers for all of them.
At the Sector Sargazo entrance, Refugio Laguna Sargazo (US$7.50 pp with kitchen privileges and hot showers) makes a good base for day hikers; a short distance up the trail, the walk-in Camping Sargazo has five free sites, but as Conaf improves the infrastructure with toilets and showers, it will charge for them.
At the head of the Río Chaica valley, the walk-in Camping Chaica (US$2 pp) is the only option in the southern sector.
By the southern approach, on the highway to Hornopirén, Austrian-run Hostal Mozart (Carretera Austral, Km 25, tel. 065/330487, hostalmozart [at] willnet [dot] cl, US$11 pp–US$65 d) is a comfortable guesthouse with spacious rooms that range from a five-bed dorm with shared bath to a sea-view double with its own small deck. The Austrian owners will shuttle guests to Sector Chaicas (US$19 pp round-trip).
Just outside the park boundaries, the secluded Alerce Mountain Lodge (Carretera Austral, Km 36, tel. 065/286969, www.mountainlodge.cl, US$230 pp) is a luxury lodge that specializes in multi-day packages, including activities such as hiking and horseback riding. Off-season rates (May–October) are about 15–20 percent lower.
En route to Sector Chaicas, a popular choice with guests at Hostal Mozart, Los Rosales de Pichi Quillaipe (Carretera Austral, Km 20, tel. 099/9203692) is a view restaurant that serves Pantagruelian portions of quality regional specialties, such as smoked pork or baked salmon, in the US$7.50 range. Light eaters might consider sharing a main dish.
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Chile, 2nd edition