Ancud has plenty of accommodations ranging from camping to mostly midrange choices, with a handful of not-quite-upscale alternatives.
Surveying the shoreline from its location above Playa Gruesa, about 600 meters north of downtown, Camping Arena Gruesa (Costanera Norte 290, tel. 065/623428, arenagruesa [at] yahoo [dot] com, US$5.50 pp) has 60 lighted sites with scant privacy but hot showers, firewood, and other conveniences; in a residential neighborhood, its major drawbacks are barking dogs and crowing roosters.
The best budget choice is immaculate Hostal Terramar (Bellavista 457, tel. 065/620493, terramarancud [at] gmail [dot] com, US$7.50–9 pp), engagingly decorated with skillfully painted flowers on its doors, walls, and even furniture in a style that resembles Argentine filete, derived from an Italian signpainting tradition. The rooms aren’t large, but they’re well-furnished, and those with private bath are only slightly more expensive; the common areas are spacious and inviting. It lacks parking.
Nearby, crammed with kitschy decor, friendly Hospedaje Alto Bellavista (Bellavista 449, tel. 065/622384, US$11 pp with shared bath, US$28 d with private bath) has reasonably spacious, comfy rooms and serves an abundant breakfast; parking is limited.
Ancud’s best new option is the nearly pristine, Swiss-run Hostal Nuevo Mundo (Av. Costanera Salvador Allende 748, tel. 065/628383, www.newworld.cl, US$11 pp in dorms, US$26/37 s/d), which also offers panoramic sunsets and secure parking. Given its popularity, reservations are advisable.
No longer the Hostelling International representative, Hostal Vista al Mar (Av. Salvador Allende 918, tel./fax 065/622617, www.vistaalmar.cl, US$11 pp–US$39 d) still has moderately priced accommodations with shared bath but has added others with private baths and even some cabañas.
Thanks to its gracious, responsive management, Hospedaje Germania (Pudeto 357, tel./fax 065/622214, roseminiortloff [at] hotmail [dot] com, US$15/23 s/d with shared bath, US$19/28 s/d with private bath) is worth consideration.
Just downhill from the Terramar, all rooms at Hotel Madryn (Bellavista 491, tel. 065/622128, US$26/33 s/d) come with private bath, cable TV, and breakfast, and some have sea views. Some rooms are a little irregular in shape but still functional.
The bayfront Hotel Polo Sur (Av. Salvador Allende 630, tel. 065/622200, US$28/44 s/d) offers well-located, utilitarian accommodations with breakfast and private bath. On the north side of the Plaza de Armas, Hotel Balai (Pudeto 169, tel./fax 065/622541, www.hotelbalai.cl, US$37/45 s/d) is a modern facility.
Upscale accommodations are relatively few but pretty good. Hotel Galeón Azul (Libertad 751, tel. 065/622567, US$76/90 s/d) is cheerful and central. For the best views, there’s Hostería Ancud (San Antonio 30, tel. 065/622340, fax 065/622350, tel. 02/2349610 in Santiago, www.panamericanahoteles.cl, resancud [at] surnet [dot] cl, US$89/100 s/d).
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Chile, 2nd edition