Accommodations and Food

Just north of the Las Cascadas junction, Hotel Ensenada (tel. 065/212028, www.hotelensenada.cl, US$40–75 pp with half board) is a century-old classic that oozes character out of the woodwork—all the rooms are spacious, even the 3rd-floor rooms with shared baths, and museum pieces fill the common areas. It’s closed April–September.

In a class of its own, built by Seattle tech entrepreneur Michael Darland, the punning Yan Kee Way Lodge is an over-the-top luxury resort with whimsical (even kitschy) decor targeting big-bucks travelers for expedition holidays and/or fly-fishing (considerably more expensive). Accommodations include regular hotel rooms and two-unit bungalows (which share a wall). The dining room and elaborate kitchen at its Latitude 42 draw gourmets from around the country. For more information, contact Southern Chile Expeditions (Casilla 149, Puerto Varas, tel. 065/212030, fax 065/212031, www.southernchilexp.com).

Getting There

Several buses daily use Ruta 225 between Puerto Varas, Ensenada, and Petrohué; others continue to Ralún, Cochamó, and Puelo.

From Ensenada, a narrow gravel road follows the eastern lakeshore for 22 kilometers to Las Cascadas, where it becomes a paved road to Puerto Octay. There is no public transportation on this route, but there are four buses daily from Las Cascadas to Puerto Octay.

© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Chile, 2nd edition