About 32 kilometers west of Melipeuco, Cunco is the gateway for rafting on the Río Allipén, a roughly three-hour excursion (US$18 pp) with German-run Esmeralda Raft (tel. 099/8467617, www.esmeraldaraft.de). From late December to early April, you’ll find them on the Allipén bridge about five kilometers south of town on the Lago Colico road.
About five kilometers west of Cunco via a paved lateral, Hostería Adela y Helmut (Faja 16000, Km 5 Norte, Cunco, tel. 099/7244479, www.adelayhelmut.com, US$9 pp in dorms, US$33–60 d, breakfast US$4.50 extra) is a small German-Mapuche guesthouse that grows its own produce and makes snacks and desserts.
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Chile, 2nd edition