Where freshwater Lago Roca drains into the sea at Bahía Lapataia, the park’s main sector has several short trails and a handful of longer ones; most of the backcountry is off-limits to hikers. Slightly less than one kilometer long, the Senda Laguna Negra uses a boardwalk to negotiate boggy terrain studded with ferns, wildflowers, and other water-tolerant species. The 400-meter Senda de los Castores (Beaver Trail) winds among southern beeches gnawed to death to form dams and ponds.
The five-kilometer Senda Hito XXIV follows Lago Roca’s northeastern shore to an obelisk that marks the Chilean border. If, someday, Argentine and Chilean authorities can get it together, this would be an ideal entry point to Estancia Yendegaia’s wild backcountry, but at present it’s illegal to continue beyond the marker. From a junction about one kilometer up the Hito XXIV trail, Senda Cerro Guanaco climbs four kilometers northeast up the Arroyo Guanaco to the 970-meter summit of its namesake peak.
From Bahía Ensenada, near the park’s southeastern edge, there are boat shuttles to Isla Redonda (US$15 pp) 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m.
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Chile, 2nd edition