Even budget accommodations are a little more expensive here, though the simple Residencial Cochrane (Dr. Steffens 451, tel. 067/522377, US$9 pp) is an exception; it also offers camping space (US$4.50 pp). Residencial El Fogón (San Valentín 651, tel. 067/522240, US$9 pp) has one of Cochrane’s better restaurants.
Remodeled Residencial Paola (Lago Brown 150, tel. 067/522215, US$9 pp) and Residencial Cero a Cero (Lago Brown 464, tel. 067/522158, ceroacero [at] hotmail [dot] com, US$9 pp) are similar. Another budget favorite is family-run Hostal Latitude 47° Sur (Lago Brown 564, tel. 067/522280, turislat47sur [at] hotmail [dot] com, US$11 pp).
A steep rickety staircase leads to six simple rooms with shared bath at Residencial El Arriero (San Valentín 750, tel. 067/522137, US$11 pp with an above-average breakfast). The beds are comfortable, the shared baths are tidy and the showers excellent, and some rooms even have balconies, but the doors and floors are creaky. Ask at the downstairs supermarket to see the rooms.
Across the street, Residencial Lago Esmeralda (San Valentín 141, tel. 067/522621, US$13 pp with breakfast) has some legitimate, comfortable singles, rather than the closet-sized partitions that often pass for singles in the region. It also has a passable restaurant, but the shower fixtures in the shared baths can be awkward.
Rooms vary at Residencial Sur Austral (Arturo Prat 334, tel. 067/522150, US$13 pp), but the best are comfortable and spacious. Popular with cycling groups, comfortably furnished Residencial Rubio (Teniente Merino 871, tel. 067/522173, US$19 pp) has spacious, spotless rooms with twin beds, private baths, and breakfast (some cheaper rooms have shared bath).
On spacious, well-landscaped grounds, Hotel Wellmann (Las Golondrinas 36, tel. 067/522171, US$56/74 s/d with breakfast) is both central and comfortable. Directly across the street from Cero a Cero, on barren grounds long awaiting landscaping, Spanish-run Hotel Ultimo Paraíso (Lago Brown 455, tel./fax 067/522361, US$61/74 s/d) is otherwise exceptional, with eight well-heated, spacious, and attractive rooms with private baths. The guests-only restaurant serves lunch and dinner.
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Chile, 2nd edition