Residencial Elizabeth (Circunvalación s/n, tel. 067/325106, US$9 pp for B&B) also serves lunch and dinner. The best budget option is Hostería Mercury (Av. Otto Übel s/n, tel. 067/325201, US$7.50 pp with shared bath, US$11 pp with private bath); though it has no frills, everything works, the beds are comfortable, and rates include breakfast.

Now open all year, with exceptional management, tobacco-free Casa Ludwig (Av. Übel 850, tel./fax 067/325220, US$15 pp–US$19/30 s/d with shared bath, US$46/55 d with private bath) is an eight-room B&B in a cavernous four-story landmark house. Attic rooms with shared bath (US$13 pp) are cheaper than the downstairs rooms (some of which have sea views) but still comfy and cozy, and the breakfast is excellent. English and German are spoken; the sitting room has a large German-language library with a few English titles. There are lower rates in December and March.

Set among delightful gardens, Hostería Alemana (Av. Übel 450, tel. 067/325118, hosteria_alemana [at] entelchile [dot] net, US$33/50 s/d) is good enough but lacks the Ludwig’s charm.

In addition to hotel dining rooms, there are also salmon dinners and kuchen at inconsistent Café Rossbach (Ernesto Ludwig s/n), alongside the carpet factory. Open in summer only, the rustically stylish and tobacco-free Lluvia Marina (Av. Übel 720, tel. 067/325214) is the best choice—the only choice, really—for a splurge. Excellent entrées such as chupe de locos fall in the US$5–11 range, but there’s a nightly special for about US$6.50 and even some vegetarian dishes, not to mention a rich chocolate cake with raspberry sauce.