Futaleufú has more and better accommodations than any other place of its size on or along the Carretera Austral; most are utilitarian, but several have both character and style.
Just south of town on Ruta 231, prior to crossing the bridge over the river, Camping Puerto Espolón (US$4 pp) has shady sites with grass, clean toilets, and hot showers.
Affordable accommodations with shared bath and breakfast include Hospedaje El Campesino (Prat 107, tel. 065/721275, US$8.50 pp), Residencial Carahue (O’Higgins 332, tel. 065/721221, US$8.50 pp), and Hotel Continental (Balmaceda 595, tel. 065/721222, US$8.50 pp). Hospedaje Adolfo (O’Higgins 302,tel. 065/721256, US$9 pp) is a step above the others, though some rooms have low ceilings. Posada Ely (Balmaceda 409, tel. 065/721205, US$12 pp with breakfast) has rooms with private bath.
On the east side of the Plaza de Armas, open November–April, La Antigua Casona (Manuel Rodríguez 215, tel. 065/721311, US$56 s/d) primarily handles Expediciones Chile clients but will take drop-ins on a space-available basis; contact the Expediciones Chile office (Gabriela Mistral 296, tel. 067/721386). The rejuvenated rooms are spacious, the beds comfortable, and the breakfast diverse, but like many older Patagonian buildings, its floors and staircases creak with movement.
Hostería Río Grande (O’Higgins 397, tel. 065/721320, US$92 d, www.pacchile.cl) has pleasant common areas, a bar/restaurant, and a dozen simple, tastefully decorated twin-bedded rooms. It’s a lesser value, though, than other comparably priced places. The more upmarket Posada Campesina La Gringa (Sargento Aldea 456, tel. 065/721260, tel. 02/2359187 in Santiago, US$83/111 s/d with breakfast) enjoys a spacious garden setting.
Easily the most stylish place, in a sylvan setting west of town near the Chaitén road, Hostal La Confluencia (Ruta 231, Km 2, tel. 065/232300 in Puerto Montt, reservasalsur [at] surnet [dot] cl, US$47 pp) is a Doug Tompkins property offering B&B for no more than four persons in a pair of double rooms.
Rooms at rustically styled, family-run Hotel El Barranco (O’Higgins 172, tel. 065/721314, www.elbarrancochile.cl, US$106/133 s/d with breakfast) look into lush woods. While attractive enough, it’s overpriced for this market.
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Chile, 2nd edition