Another former lake port, at the west end of Lago General Carrera, Puerto Guadal is more picturesque than most area towns. It lies 13 kilometers east of El Maitén; from here, a rugged and narrow road leads northeast to Chile Chico and the Argentine border at Los Antiguos.

Puerto Guadal has upgraded its free lakeshore campground. The next cheapest accommodations are Hostería Huemules (Las Magnolias 382, tel. 067/411202, US$9 pp), which also has a restaurant. Cabañas Antué (Los Pinos 456, tel. 067/431215, US$40 for up to five persons) has hot showers, full kitchens, and wood stoves; check in at Supermercado Plaza (Las Camelias 147).

On Guadal’s eastern outskirts, the wooded grounds at elegantly simple Terra Luna (tel. 067/431263, fax 067/431264, www.terra-luna.cl) enjoy lake panoramas. While the French-run resort specializes in weeklong activities-oriented packages, it also rents “ministudio” accommodations (US$20 s or d in the off-season, US$30 s or d in summer); rooms in the main lodge go for US$60 off-season, US$100 in summer. Breakfast is included, other meals are extra; the kitchen can do a lot with a little, even on short notice. English and French are spoken; their Santiago contact is Azimut 360 (General Salvo 159, Providencia, tel. 02/2363880, fax 02/2353085, www.azimut360.com).

Other than the Terra Luna, Café de la Frontera (Los Lirios 399, tel. 067/431234) is the best place to eat.

Getting There

Transportes Austral (Los Notros 430, tel. 067/431275) goes to Coyhaique (US$12) Monday and Thursday, while Transporte El Cóndor goes Wednesday and Sunday. To Chile Chico (US$8), try Turismo Seguel (Los Notros 560, tel. 067/431214) Monday and Thursday.