Stretching from the Peruvian border to Puerto Montt and the Isla Grande de Chiloé, the Panamericana (Ruta 5) is Chile’s main transport artery, though the shorter and more scenic coastal Ruta 1 has superseded it between Iquique and Antofagasta. The Panamericana is entirely paved; from La Serena south to Puerto Montt, it is a four-lane divided highway. Even so, despite the presence of call boxes, rest areas, and peajes (toll booths), there are occasionally loose livestock, wandering pedestrians, and even vendors hawking items ranging from sweets and ice cream to fresh produce and cheese to dressed kid goat, ready for barbecue.

Many more roads are paved or smoothly graded, though the Aisén region’s Ruta 7, the Carretera Austral (Southern Highway), is often narrow, mostly gravel, and occasionally precarious (the author has wrecked two four-wheel-drive vehicles on it, with extenuating circumstances). Heavy truck traffic can make all these routes dangerous, but most Chileans are courteous and cautious drivers despite isolated Santiago road rage incidents. Watch for Argentine license plates, as many trans-Andean visitors drive far more aggressively.

Congested Santiago can be a madhouse, the routes out of the capital can be difficult for drivers without local experience, and there’s a complex toll system that penalizes drivers who stumble into it without electronic tags. It’s better to park the car, preferably in a guarded lot, and use public transport. Avoid leaving conspicuous valuables in the car.

In both the city and the countryside, watch for lomas de burro (speed bumps, also known as pacos acostados, sleeping policemen). Night driving is inadvisable in some rural areas, as domestic livestock and inebriated campesinos may roam freely.

Police checkpoints are less common than under the dictatorship, but always stop when the Carabineros police signal you to do so; this is usually a routine document check. Carabineros have been trained to refuse bribes, so don’t even think about offering one, which can get you in serious trouble; if you’ve committed an infracción (traffic violation), try to reason with them and you may get off unless your offense is flagrant or truly dangerous. Note that the slang term paco is widely considered an insult—never use it to a cop’s face.

Speed limits are generally around 100 kilometers per hour, but the maximum is 120 kilometers per hour on four-lane divided roads. Carabineros with radar guns are common sights along all highways.

In remote areas where gas stations are few, such as Aisén or the altiplano east of Arica and Iquique, carry additional fuel. Note that members of the American Automobile Association (AAA), Britain’s Automobile Association (AA), and other similar clubs are often eligible for limited roadside assistance and towing through the Automóvil Club de Chile (Acchi, Av. Andrés Bello 1863, Providencia, Santiago, tel. 02/4311000). It has affiliates in the larger cities.