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Cerro Cárcel’s Caruso (Av. Cumming 201, tel. 0322/594039) gets high marks for seafood but low marks for keeping irregular schedules—phone before going, even on a Friday or Saturday evening.
On Cerro Bellavista, serving an international menu that includes Thai and Indian dishes, as well as vegetarian specialties, the Fundación Valparaíso’s 
El Gato Tuerto (Héctor Calvo 205, tel. 0322/734328) is part of the nonprofit’s effort to reinvigorate the city. It also has a bookstore/café.
Toward Viña del Mar, on Cerro Esperanza above Avenida España, Portofino (Bellamar 301, tel. 0322/621464) still has its adherents, but it’s lagging behind some newer Italian options.
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Chile, 2nd edition
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