More a roadside business than a village, Valle Escondida (Carr. Fronteriza del Sur Km. 61, cell tel. 044-916/100-0399, busil_h [at] hotmail [dot] com) is arguably the best lodging and food between Palenque and Frontera Corozal. A fresh, well-prepared buffet breakfast (US$8 pp, daily from 7 a.m.) includes eggs, beans, coffee and juice, fresh fruit, handmade tortillas, and more, served in an open-air dining area beneath a thick forest canopy.

It can get crowded—just about every tour group stops here on the way to Bonampak and Yaxchilán—but makes a great pit stop nonetheless.

Valle Escondida’s handful of cabañas (US$80–100) are on the opposite side of the highway, near the owners’ ranch house. Deluxe units have king-size beds and two singles, high sloped ceilings and oversize windows, and a bathroom and shower tucked behind an attractive stone wall—truly a sight for sore eyes after a long day at the ruins.

Smaller units are perfectly comfortable, but lack the same charm. Service is friendly, though there’s no official reception desk; if the restaurant is closed, try knocking on the door of the main ranch house.