Tenejapa’s well-tended central plaza is bordered on two sides by brightly painted municipal buildings, including the Casa de Cultura (tel. 967/674-8139, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. and 4–8 p.m. Mon.–Fri.), where textiles and other local handicrafts are sometimes displayed. There’s also a large mural, brimming with highland Maya imagery and symbolism.

Iglesia San Ildefonso (hours vary), Tenejapa’s main church, also faces the plaza, and features rich velvet tapestries draped from the rafters above the nave. The altar is an exuberant display of candles, saints, and a large image of Christ, while along the walls are more statues, many dressed in traditional Tenejapa garb. Remember, no photos!

The Thursday market begins on the road on the far side of the church, and extends several blocks. The atmosphere is noticeably mellow and makes for a pleasant stroll. There’s very little aimed at tourists, but fresh fruit or a bag of peanuts (roasted or boiled) is always a nice purchase.