Accomplishing the difficult task of being achingly hip while also offering some of the best food in town, Sapphire Grill (110 W. Congress St., 912/443-9962, www.sapphiregrill.com, Fri.–Sat. 5:30–11:30 p.m., Sun.–Thurs. 6–10:30 p.m., $25–40) comes closer than any other Savannah restaurant to replicating a high-class, trendy Manhattan eatery—at prices to match. With its bare stone walls, lean ambience, and romantically dark interior, you’d be tempted to think it’s all sizzle and no steak.

But executive chef Chris Nason, former exec at Charleston’s Anson Restaurant, has a way with coastal cuisine, relying on the freshest local seafood. But his classic meat dishes like lamb, filet mignon, and veal are equally skillful. The lobster bisque is a must-have, and the benne-encrusted local black grouper is always a good choice. As you’d expect, the wine list is impressive, but a close look shows a refined taste for some of the lesser-known labels that other local places miss. Reservations are essential, and while there’s no dress code per se, you don’t want to go here looking unkempt.