Classic Southern

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Every year, thousands of visitors come to Savannah for the privilege of waiting for hours outside in all weather, the line stretching a full city block, for a chance to eat at The Lady & Sons (102 W. Congress St., 912/233-2600, www.ladyandsons.com, lunch Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.–3 p.m., dinner Mon.–Sat. begins at 5 p.m., Sunday buffets 11 a.m.–5 p.m., $17–25) and sample some of local celebrity Paula Deen’s “home” cooking—actually a fairly typical Southern buffet with some decent fried chicken, collard greens, and mac and cheese. For the privilege, you must begin waiting in line as early as 9:30 a.m. for lunch and as early as 3:30 p.m. for dinner in order to be assigned a dining time. You almost assuredly will never see Paula, who has precious little to do with the restaurant these days.

Eating at this Savannah landmark provides a story that visitors will be able to tell friends and family for the rest of their lives, and far be it from me to look down upon them for doing so. That being said—if it were me, I’d take that four hours spent waiting in line and instead go to one of Savannah’s many other excellent eating establishments, leaving lots of time left over for an afternoon beer or coffee or dessert, and leaving yet more time to see one of Savannah’s many interesting and beautiful sights. A chef friend of mine puts it best: When food sits out under a heat lamp too long, it all tastes the same anyway.

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