New Southern

Few restaurants in Charleston inspires such impassioned, vocal advocates as McCrady’s (2 Unity Alley, 843/577-0025, www.mccradysrestaurant.com, Sun.–Thurs. 5:30–10 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 5:30–11 p.m., $25–34). Housed in Charleston’s oldest tavern building (circa 1788), McCrady’s is also known as Charleston’s best-kept secret, since despite its high quality it’s managed to avoid the siege of tourists common at many local fine-dining spots.

But their loss can be your gain as you enjoy the prodigious talents of young chef Sean Brock, whose sous vide, or vacuum cooking, is spoken of in hushed tones by his clientele.

McCrady’s is not the place to gorge on usual Lowcountry fare. Portions here are small and dynamic, and range from a yam soup with marshmallow and roasted chestnuts to seared foie gras with maple syrup to seared Hawaiian tuna in a saffron-vegetable juice emulsion.

The menu changes seasonally according to the local market and the chef’s whim. Many diners find the seven-course, $70 Chef’s Tasting a near-religious experience. For an extra $60, master sommelier Clint Sloan provides paired wine selections.

© Jim Morekis from Moon Charleston & Savannah, 4th Edition