Originally a 16th-century home, Hotel El Mesón del Marqués (central plaza, Calle 39 between Calles 40 and 42, tel. 985/856-2073, www.mesondelmarques.com, US$53–65 s/d with a/c, US$99 junior suite with a/c) is a favorite among travelers—a traditionally Mexican hotel with lush courtyards, a gurgling fountain, arches upon arches, and personalized service. Rooms are divided into three categories: standard, superior, and junior suite. The first two are decorated similarly with heavy wood furniture, iron headboards, and brightly colored woven bedspreads—the difference is that the superior is bigger and more expensive. Junior suites are brand new rooms, with modern decor and amenities, and even more space than the others. All of the rooms lead to an egg-shaped pool in a verdant garden—a perfect place to relax after a day of sightseeing. Be sure to enjoy at least one meal at the hotel restaurant, considered one of the best in town.

Located just a half-block from pretty San Bernardino de Siena church, Casa Quetzal (Calle 51 No. 218, tel. 985/856-4796, www.casa-quetzal.com, US$55.50 s/d, including breakfast) is Valladolid’s first true B&B. Five large high-ceilinged rooms surround a pretty garden and swimming pool, while a community kitchen and lovely reading room—with excellent Mexican artwork, especially from Oaxaca and Jalisco—lend a homey feel. The plain ceramic floors and somewhat flimsy furniture clash with the hacienda-esque style intended here, but it’s a charming place nonetheless and a model that is sure to be replicated and refined in this increasingly popular colonial city. All rooms have air-conditioning and wireless Internet, and four additional suites were in the works. The hotel is a bit removed from the central plaza—which can be a good thing—but you can easily walk into town or catch a taxi (US$1).