If you go to only one sight, make it Fuerte de San Miguel and Museo Arqueológico de Campeche (Av. Escencia s/n, 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Tues.–Sun., US$2.75), about 2.5 kilometers (1.6 miles) south of the city center. Built in the 18th century, the fort sits atop a large hill and includes a moat, drawbridge, and a breathtaking view of the Gulf.

The museum here is the real highlight though, housing a truly fantastic collection of Maya artifacts from around the state, including several pieces from the ruins at Isla Jaina, six spectacular jade funeral masks found at Calakmul, and urns decorated with tapirs, monkeys, and turtles from Río Bec.

Signage is in Spanish and English; look for the cardboard information sheets in each exhibit hall. If using public transportation, take a “Playa Bonita/Lerma” bus in front of the post office (US$0.35). The bus will drop you off at the turnoff to the fort, which is about another 500 meters (0.3 miles) up a steep hill.

Below the Fuerte de San Miguel is the Batería de San Luis (8 a.m.–6 p.m. daily, free), a small fortification that is empty save one exhibit on Captain Pedro Sáinz de Baranda y Borreiro, a native of Campeche and naval commander who in 1835 became the governor of Yucatán.

On the other side of town, the Reducto de San José El Alto (Av. Francisco Morazán s/n, 8 a.m.–8 p.m. Tues.–Sun., US$2) is a well-renovated fort complete with cannons, thick walls, and a spectacular view of the Gulf of Mexico. It also houses the small Museo de Armas y Barcos, a maritime and weaponry museum where you’ll find model ships, 18th-century weapons, and a few other colonial-era artifacts. Explanations in Spanish only. You’ll need a car or taxi to get there, and even so it’s easy to get lost.