The restaurant at the Hacienda Puerta Campeche, La Guardia (Calle 59 at Calle 18, tel. 981/816-7508, 7 a.m.–11 p.m. daily, US$10–25) is Campeche’s most upscale restaurant. Dark wood tables are set up in an attractive dining area that looks onto a lush garden courtyard. Gourmet regional cuisine—seafood figures prominently—is the focus of the menu although several international specialties are offered as well. Service is impeccable.

Don’t be dissuaded by the lonely looking entrance—the artsy bohemian Café Tulum (Calle 59 near Calle 10, no tel., 8 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat., US$2.50–4) is a great little place to enjoy a meal. Light fare, smoothies, and coffee drinks are served in a bright interior courtyard. Take in the modern paintings and poster art while you linger over your meal. Before you leave, check out the flyers for cultural events going on around town.

Nutrivida (Calle 12 between Calles 57 and 59, 8 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5:30–8:30 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Sat., US$1.50–3) is a popular joint offering great soy-based meals, lots of veggie burgers, yogurt, and fruit dishes. Plans were afoot to convert this hole-in-the-wall into a full-fledged restaurant—prices may increase, but the owner says it’ll stay vegetarian.