An old-school chop house seems like an unlikely venture for sustainable food junkie Traci Des Jardins. But the Acme Chophouse (24 Willie Mays Plaza, 415/644-0240, www.acmechophouse.com, lunch Tues.–Fri. 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m., dinner Tues.–Sat. 5:30–10 p.m., $23–47) proves that great food truly comes in all styles. The perfect place to enjoy an upscale meal before a ballgame, Acme serves locally ranched steaks, delicious fries, stylish salads, and yummy desserts.

If you spring for the grass-fed beef, you’re in for a special treat. Though the sauces that come with each steak are delicious in their own right, the grass-fed steaks are so juicy and flavorful you’ll forget all about the sauce.

With a big sweeping dining room and an open kitchen, Acme succeeds in creating a casual atmosphere apropos of the ballpark and welcoming to diners in jeans. Sure, you’ll spend a pretty penny on your meal, but at least you’ll feel comfy while you’re eating it.