Accommodations and Camping
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The only lodging in the heart of the park is Kootenay Park Lodge (403/762-9196, www.kootenayparklodge.com, mid-May–late Sept., $120–185 s or d), a cabin complex at Vermilion Crossing, 65 kilometers (40 miles) from Radium Hot Springs. It consists of a main lodge with restaurant, 10 cabins, and a gift shop. The most basic cabins have a bathroom, small fridge, and coffeemaker, with rates rising to $185 for the newer Verendrye Cabins with a separate bedroom and a fireplace. Utensil and cooking kits are $10 per day.
The well-kept 
Cross River Wilderness Centre (403/271-3296 or 877/659-7665, www.crossriver.ca, $175 pp including meals) has a real sense of privacy and of being well away from the well-worn tourist path of Highway 93. And they are—tucked in a riverside setting 15 kilometers (9.3 miles) down Settler’s Road, which branches off the highway 114 kilometers (71 miles) from Banff and 32 kilometers (20 miles) from Radium Hot Springs.
The smart, spacious cabins are equipped with wood-burning fireplaces, log beds draped in down duvets, toilets, and sinks. Showers are located in the main building, along with the lounge, cooking facilities, a dining area, and a deck. As you can imagine, the atmosphere is convivial, with the cabins attracting outdoorsy types who want to enjoy the Canadian Rockies in their natural state—without room service and fine dining. Highly recommended.
Nipika Mountain Resort (250/342-6516 or 877/647-4525, www.nipika.com; $195 s, $275 d) offers the same wilderness experience as the Cross River Cabins and is in the same vicinity—along Settler’s Road, which branches off Highway 93, 114 kilometers (71 miles) from Banff and 32 kilometers (20 miles) from Radium Hot Springs. Sleeping up to eight people, the seven cabins are larger than those at Cross River and have full en suite bathrooms and kitchens with wood-burning stoves. The cabins are modern but were constructed in a very traditional manner—the logs were milled on-site, and construction is dovetail notching. Guests bring their own food and spend their days hiking, fishing, and wildlife watching. In winter, an extensive system of trails is groomed for cross-country skiing.
Camping
Kootenay National Parkk’s largest camping area is Redstreak Campground (mid-May–mid-Oct., unserviced sites $27, hookups $35–39) on a narrow plateau in the extreme southwest (vehicle access from Highway 93/95 on the south side of Radium Hot Springs township), which holds 242 sites, showers, and kitchen shelters. In summer, free slideshows and talks are presented by park naturalists five nights a week and typically feature topics such as wolves, bears, the park’s human history, or the effects of fire. Trails lead from the campground to the hot springs, town, and a couple of lookouts. A limited number of sites can be reserved through the Parks Canada Campground Reservation Service (877/737-3783, www.pccamping.ca).
The park’s two other campgrounds lie to the north of Radium Hot Springs along Highway 93. Both offer fewer facilities (no hookups or showers). The larger of the two is McLeod Meadows Campground, beside the Kootenay River 27 kilometers (16.8 miles) from Radium Hot Springs. Facilities include flush toilets, kitchen shelters, and a fire pit and picnic table at each of the 98 sites. Marble Canyon, across the highway from the natural attraction of the same name, offers 61 sites and similar facilities. Both are open late June to early September, and all sites cost $22.
© Andrew Hempstead, from Moon Western Canada, 3rd Edition
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