Several bed-and-breakfasts in Masset provide lodgings and local flavor. Next to the pier, rustic
Copper Beech House (1590 Delkatla Rd., 250/626-5441, www.copperbeechhouse.com, $90 s, $110–140 d) is a New England–style saltbox, decorated with sea treasures and with a beautiful flower garden. Rates include a delicious breakfast prepared by David Phillips, whose enthusiasm for the islands is infectious. Phillips does wonders with local produce—smoking his own seafood and making jams and preserves from locally harvested berries.

Beach Cabins (14 km/9 mi east of Masset on Tow Hill Rd., 250/626-5472, www.beachcabins.com, $65–90 s or d) comprises cedar-shaked cabins spread through the dense temperate rainforest of Sitka spruce. If you can do without modern conveniences, you’ll love this place, but be prepared for outhouses, no electricity, and no phones.

Village of Masset RV Site and Campground (Tow Hill Rd. two km/1.2 mi north of Masset, $15–22) is opposite the Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary. The campground features large, fairly private campsites with tables among the trees, and washrooms with coin-operated hot showers.