Sitting within a vast green area between the lagoon and the wild, deserted sands of Praia de Moçambique, Pousada Rio Vermelho (Rodovia João Gualberto Soares 8479, Praia de Moçambique, tel. 48/3269-7337, www.riovermelhopousada.com.br, R$140–150 d) offers a total getaway. The main lodge is a paragon of rustic chic with hardwood floors, patchwork quilts, throw pillows, and hand-woven carpets. Individual chalets are somewhat more basic, and are equipped with kitchens. There is also a lovely pool.
Set upon a swatch of land that stretches from Praia Mole to the lagoa, Praia Mole Eco Village (Estrada Geral da Barra da Lagoa 2001, tel. 48/3239-7500, www.praiamole.com.br, R$144–312 d) offers something for everyone with a variety of accommodation options dispersed among orchid-strewn gardens. The smallest and charming Vista Mar building overlooks the beach. The larger Bloco Central is close to the swimming pool, spa, and tennis courts. Meanwhile, rooms in the gracious Solar das Acácias offer captivating views of the lagoon. Ideal for groups and families of up to six are the spacious one- and two-bedroom private bungalows.
All rooms are simply, but warmly, decorated with wooden furniture and paintings by local artists. Activities available range from yoga and pilates classes to guided nature walks, horseback riding, and fishing and diving expeditions. Just off the lovely Praia do Campeche, Hotel São Sebastião da Praia (Av. Campeche, Praia do Campeche, tel. 48/3338-2070, www.hotelsaosebastiao.com.br, R$160–190 d) is a fine option with comfortable, attractively appointed rooms set amid sprawling tropical greenery, along with a nice-sized pool.
© Michael Sommers from Moon Brazil, 2nd Edition