In the late 19th and early 20th century, Paraná was a thriving place due to simultaneous booms in coffee and immigration. One of the most delicious consequences is the abundance of European-style cafés and tea salons that opened up on and around Rua das Flores, several of which still draw (largely mature) crowds around tea time.

Confeitaria das Famílias (Rua das Flores 374, Centro, tel. 41/3223-0313, 7 a.m.–11 p.m. daily) has been satisfying Curitibanos’ sugar cravings since 1945 with a mouthwatering array of pastries. It was here that the legendary torta Martha Rocha was invented. A concoction of chocolate and vanilla cake with cream and walnut praline was an attempt by the founder of the confeitaria to console his wife, who was devastated when Rocha, a.k.a. Miss Brazil of 1954, lost the Miss Universe crown because of two extra inches on her hips.

The majority of Curitiba’s most interesting bars are divided between the historic center and the trendy bairro of Batel. Popularly known as the “Bar do Alemão” (German bar), Schwarzwald (Rua Dr. Claudino dos Santos 63, Centro, tel. 41/3223-2585, www.bardoalemaocuritiba.com.br, 11 a.m.–2 a.m. daily) is a perpetually lively gastronomic (and somewhat touristic) institution famous for its Bohemian ambiance, fine German cuisine, and dependably icy draft beer.

Another animated spot is Jacobina (Rua Almirante Tamandaré 1365, Juvevê, tel. 41/3016-6111, www.jacobinabar.com.br, 11:30 a.m.–1 a.m. Mon.–Sat.), whose warm, homey vibe is accentuated by the ad-hoc decor of old TVs, typewriters, teapots, and frying pans. The menu features very tasty and inexpensive fare that ranges from classic Brazilian home-cooking to international dishes such as Moroccan couscous and Oriental chicken with ginger. Although it sounds suspect, the sorvete de queijo (cheese sorbet) topped with guava sauce is pretty divine. On Saturday afternoons an all-you-can eat feijoada is accompanied by live chorinho.

For live music, head to Santa Marta (Rua Bispo Dom José 2030, Batel, tel. 41/3343-2803, www.santamartabar.com.br, 6 p.m.–2 a.m. Tues.–Sun., noon–4 p.m. Sat., no cover), located in an immense 80-year-old house whose pleasant deck is shaded by an enormous jabuticaba tree. Every night at 9 p.m., there are performances running the gamut from MPB and samba-rock to “surf music.” Since Santa Marta is the patron saint of cooks, it’s not surprising that the food is quite tasty. Saturday afternoons draw a hungry crowd for the all-you-can-eat barreado buffet and live chorinho.