Canoa Quebrada’s pousadas are all fairly basic and quite affordable (eco-chic has yet to arrive). If you come during off-season, you can easily find a room for under R$100. Pousada Lua Estrela (Rua Nascer do Sol 106, tel. 88/3421-7030, www.luaestrela.com.br, R$80–95 d) is an appealingly rustic, family-run pousada. Although only some rooms have air-conditioning, there is a small pool for cooling off, and the panoramic views of red tiled roofs, palms, and the beach beyond are splendid

Pousada Aruanã (Rua dos Bugueiros, tel. 88/3421-7154, www.pousadaaruana.com.br R$120–180 d) is a newish and very attractive place featuring two-story bungalows set amidst a palmy garden with a pool. Both standard and superior rooms (with air-conditioning) are tastefully furnished with lots of wood, organic fibers and soft lighting. All have verandas, most of which look out over the sea.

Pousada La Dolce Vita (Rua Descida da Praia, tel. 88/3421-7213, www.canoa-quebrada.it, R$130–160 d) is a relaxing place with friendly staff, attractive grounds, and a great pool. The chalet accommodations, each named after a Fellini film, are warm and nicely decorated (with vintage film posters of course). The restaurant serves tasty Italian fare.

Like its hotels, Canoa Quebrada’s restaurants are laid-back and light on one’s pocketbook. For lunch, you’re best off digging into a plate of shrimp, lobster, or fresh fish served at the beach barracas. Avoid the megabarracas closest to town: the more atmospherically primitive ones further east such as Freedom Bar, Lazy Days, and Caffé Della Praia all have good nibbles.

For dinner, Natural Bistrô (Rua Dragão do Mar 52, tel. 88/3421-7162, 6:30 p.m.–midnight daily, R$15–25) is one of the prettiest of Canoa’s restaurants with rustic decor and soft, amber lighting. The menu offers an assortment of healthy seafood dishes such as fresh fish prepared with yogurt, and shrimp with chuchu (a native vegetable) in orange sauce.

Also recommended is the attractive Spanish-run Costa Brava (Rua Dragão do Mar, tel. 88/3421-7088, 6 p.m.–midnight Mon.–Sat., R$18–28), where you can feast on paella or the more unusual fideoa, a Catalonian version of paella with angel hair spaghetti substituting for rice. Carnivores can dig into an Argentinean picanha (rump steak).