Accommodations and Food
Cozy and rustic, Pousada Tupaiulandai (Rua Pedro Teixeira 300, tel. 93/3527-1157, R$60–70 d) is a good budget option. Rooms are quite large and comfortable, although somewhat lacking in decor. Breakfasts are good and the owners are very hospitable.
Just off the main praça and close to the beach, the Pousada Agualinda (Rua Dom Macedo Costa, tel. 93/3527-1314, www.agualinda.com.br, R$80–90) is a newish hotel with cool tile floors, lots of attractive woodwork, and a fondness for pale pink. Air-conditioned rooms are basic, but tidy and pleasant, and accommodate up to four. Internet access is available.
By far the best hotel is the Hotel Beloalter (Rua Pedro Teixeira, tel. 93/3527-1230, www.beloalter.com.br, R$175–205 d), located on the shore of Lago Verde, a turquoise lake fringed by lovely beaches, which is only a short walk or canoe ride from the village. Lodgings are spread through an immense tropical garden that includes a pool and a placid lagoon. The air-conditioned rooms are spacious and very comfortable, if a little spartan. Although they cost a bit more, much more attractive and jungly are the two “ecological” rooms decked out entirely in native woods and fibers. Even better is the treehouse. The on-site restaurant is pleasantly rustic and serves well prepared regional cooking for lunch and dinner.
In town, the scenic beachfront restaurant in the Pousada Alter do Chão (Rua Lauro Sodré 74, tel. 93/3527-1215, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 9 a.m.–11 p.m. Sat.–Sun., extended to 9 a.m.–11 p.m. daily in Feb., July, and Nov., R$10–18) is a good spot for inexpensive and very tasty fish dishes.
Equally recommended is the laid-back and friendly Tribal (Travessa Antônio A. Lobato, 11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 6–11 p.m., R$10–15), where you can dig into generous portions of fish as well as grilled chicken and beef.
© Michael Sommers from Moon Brazil, 2nd Edition