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For a change from Amazonian fare, nothing beats a good, old-fashioned pizza. Tavola Redonda (Av. André Araújo 1603, Aleixo, tel. 92/3611-4433, 5–11 p.m. Tues.–Sun., R$15–20) serves up delicious thin-crust versions with a variety of traditional toppings (i.e., no piranha) as well as some pasta dishes. The atmosphere is nicely mellow with wood furnishings and big glass windows overlooking the street.

Most of the fish you’ll taste at Shin Suzuran (Av. Djalma Batista 3694, Parque Dez, tel. 92/3236-5333, 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m. and 6:30–11 p.m. daily, R$40–50)—tuna, salmon, robalo—is flown in directly from São Paulo before being sliced and diced into melt-in-your-mouth sushi and sashimi by owner/sushiman Hiroyo Takano. Although Takano emphasizes traditional Japanese cooking, he is occasionally inspired enough by local fare to create dishes such as sushi with seaweed, ginger, and grilled tucunaré.

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