Allez Allez (Rua Wisard 288, Vila Madalena, tel. 11/3032-3325, www.allezallez.com.br, noon–3 p.m. Tues.–Fri., 1–3 p.m. Sat., 8 p.m.–midnight Mon.–Sat., R$40–50) is a charming but unfortunately too small bistro that gets mobbed by foodies who line up to sample the culinary talents of chef Luiz Emanuel Cerqueira. French classics are prepared with original twists—try the tongue roasted in black truffle oil and frogs legs tempura à Provençal. To avoid claustrophobia, arrive early.

Jun Sakamoto (Rua Lisboa 55, Pinheiros, tel. 11/3088-6019, 7 p.m.–12:30 a.m. Mon.–Thurs., 7 p.m.–1 a.m. Fri.–Sat., R$30–40) is indisputably Brazil’s most talented vanguard sushi chef. However, if you want the rare privilege of sitting at his individual bar—reservations are essential since he only accepts eight guests a night—you’ll have to play by his rules. You’ll also have to pay a high price (R$175), since Sakamoto uses refined ingredients, including foie gras and flakes of pure gold. This means letting the maestro choose what you’re going to eat—and how (for instance, Sakamoto decides exactly how much of his homemade soya sauce he’ll allow you to douse on your spectacular sushi). A less structured alternative is to eat at a table, where you’re free to try other menu offerings, such as squid salad with bamboo shoots and cubes of sole fried in sesame oil.