The best restaurants along the coast are concentrated in Camburi (sophisticated and pricy) and Juqueí (more casual and beachy). In terms of the latter, there are many fine options along Avenida Mãe Bernarda.

At Chapéu de Sol (Av. Mãe Bernarda 2001, Juqueí, tel. 12/3863-3028, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Sun.–Thurs., 11 a.m.–2 a.m. Fri.–Sat., R$40–50) local chef Marisa Ferreira concocts simple and enticing fish and seafood dishes such as grilled robalo stuffed with seafood that two people can gorge on before or after hitting the beach.

Dining at Manacá (Rua do Manacá 102, Camburizinho, tel. 12/3865-1566, www.restaurantemanaca.com.br, 6–11 p.m. Thurs., 1–11 p.m. Fri.–Sat., 1–9 p.m. Sun., 1–11 p.m. daily in Jan., R$65–75) involves putting a dent in your budget, but you’ll be well rewarded with creatively refined dishes, such as shrimp in a ginger tangerine sauce with wasabi and white cheese mousse crowned with caramelized guava. Equally seductive is the ambiance—built on stilts in the midst of tropical forest, the restaurant resembles an elegant tree house. Advance reservations are a must.

Somewhat surprisingly, Maresias is rather bereft of good eating options. However, for great pizza, head to A Firma (Rua Sebastião Romão César 419, Maresias, tel. 12/3865-6142, 7 p.m.–close Thurs.–Mon., R$20–30), where the young and famished stock up on calories prior to a night of partying.