Bars

The unpretentious bars of “Santa” are increasingly luring an alternative crowd charmed by the laid-back vibe of this boho bairro. Inspired by the typically rustic bars of Minas Gerais, Bar do Mineiro (Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno 99, Santa Teresa, tel. 21/2221-9227, 11 a.m.–2 a.m. Tues.–Sat., 11 a.m.–midnight Sun.) is a charmingly old-fashioned botequim, accessorized with black-and-white photos and miniature wooden bondes. Aside from its delicious homemade pastéis stuffed with fillings such as feijão mineiro and carne seca com abóbora (sun-dried beef with pumpkin), the bar is noted for its feijoadas. While mellow during the week, on weekends it gets quite crowded.

Equally picturesque is Goya Beira (Largo das Neves 13, Santa Teresa, tel. 21/2232-5751, 5:30 p.m.–midnight Sun.–Thurs., 5:30 p.m.–2 a.m. Fri.–Sat.), a simple but welcoming bar looking out onto Praça Neves and the rumbling bondes. Aside from icy beer, try the cachaças infused with orange or ginger. The homemade pizza is quite tasty.

© Michael Sommers from Moon Brazil, 2nd Edition