Quiosques

With its laid-back environs and stunning views of Corcovado and Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, the Lagoa has become quite a scene with its many quiosques (kiosks; some are quite sophisticated). The unusually named Palaphita Kitch (Av. Epitácio Pessoa, Kiosk 20, Parque do Cantagalo, Lagoa, tel. 21/2227-0837, www.palaphitakitch.com.br, 6 p.m.–3 a.m. daily) is by far the most imaginative and seductive of these kiosk bars.

Zona Sul cool meets the Amazon rainforest with lounge furniture made from reforested wood and plenty of lush foliage as a decorative flourish. At night, the place is lit up by torches. As soothing music lulls you, sip on exotic fruit drinks and feast on appetizers made with Amazonian ingredients such as wild passion fruit and jacaré (cayman).

Bars

Also overlooking the Lagoa, Bar Lagoa (Av. Epitácio Pessoa 1674, Lagoa, tel. 21/2523-1135, 6 p.m.–2 a.m. Mon., noon–2 a.m. Tues.–Sun.) is a beloved botequim whose art deco interior hasn’t changed much since the 1930s. It was originally named Bar Berlin; the owner strategically changed its name during World War II, but the kitchen continues to serve hearty yet simple German fare that goes nicely with an icy chope.

Upscale Jardim Botânico also has a thriving bar scene, frequented by a young and stylish crowd. Both worldly and relaxed (if a little preppy), Caroline Café (Rua J.J. Seabra 10, Jardim Botânico, tel. 21/2540-0705, www.carolinecafe.com.br, noon–2 a.m. Mon.–Wed., noon–4 a.m. Thurs.–Fri., 7 p.m.–4 a.m. Sat.) is one of those rare places that, despite having been around for years, has never gone out of fashion. Sporting two floors and a romantic terrace, it offers various ambiances to choose from, including a lounge with DJ-spun tunes. The imported beers are a big draw, as are the delicious burgers and fries.

Much more recent, but already a major neighborhood hit is Saturnino (Rua Saturnino de Brito 50, Jardim Botânico, tel. 21/3874-0064, www.saturnino.com.br, 6 p.m.–close daily). While the interior is stylish, the most coveted tables are outside beneath an enormous fig tree (if it rains, there’s a retractable roof). The ridiculously long drink menu boasts over 200 offerings—if you’re feeling indecisive go for the mixed caipivodca kit, with a sampling of six different caipis ranging from pineapple with mint to mango with pimenta.

© Michael Sommers from Moon Brazil, 2nd Edition