Lamas (Rua Marquês de Abrantes 18, Flamengo, tel. 21/2556-0799, www.cafelamas.com.br, 9:30 a.m.–3 a.m., R$25–35) has been around since 1874, and though it has since changed addresses, everything about the place—from the food and suave bow-tied waiters to the retro ambiance—is suffused with an aura of Rio’s dining past. The front is a botequim where you can enjoy an icy chope, while the restaurant is at the back. The house specialties are the succulent filets mignons, served with lots of trimmings.

Meat is the raison d’être of Porcão Rio’s (Av. Infante Dom Henrique, Aterro de Flamengo, tel. 21/3389-8989, www.porcao.com.br, 11 a.m.–midnight Sun.–Thurs., 11 a.m.–1 a.m. Fri.–Sat., R$68 pp). Its rodízio de carne (rotation of meat) is an ingenious—not to mention fattening—Brazilian culinary tradition: Waiters circulate the dining room, brandishing various just-grilled cuts of meat, and clients pick and choose what they want. Started by two Gaúcho brothers from Brazil’s most carnivorous state, Rio Grande do Sul, Porcão has become an institution, as well as a popular (and fairly pricy) chain. Growth, however, hasn’t spoiled the quality of the food or service. In fact, aside from mouthwatering cuts of beef, the price includes unlimited trips to the fabulous buffet, which includes everything from salads and seafood to sushi. Due to its privileged seaside location right in front of Pão de Açúcar, Flamengo’s immense Porcão is the best of the bunch.