Safety Tips

These experiences are typical of instances in which traveling foreigners might find themselves at risk. However, such situations are easy to avoid. Unless you’re on a very busy or major street in a good neighborhood, don’t walk around at night in a city you don’t know. While downtown business areas of major cities such as Rio, São Paulo, Salvador, and Recife may hum with energy by day, at night and on weekends (especially Sunday) they turn into ghost towns and should be avoided. If you’re going to be amid a crowd (an outdoor performance, a parade, Carnaval) leave all valuables and original documents at home. Carry a small change purse around your neck or a money belt.

While public transportation is safe enough during the day, at night (when holdups are more likely), always take a taxi, even if it’s just a few blocks to your destination. If you’ve rented a car, be careful where you park. Particularly at night, you don’t want to be on a dark or isolated side street. If you’re at a stoplight, you should keep your windows rolled up, since if you’re stuck in traffic, you can easily be held up. In fact, at night, in many major cities, drivers slow down at stoplights, but don’t actually stop their cars (a practice sanctioned by law).

You should never be walking around (night or day) with a lot of cash in a purse or pocket. Do, however, keep a few small bills that you can easily access. Fumbling around for money in public (on a bus or at a market) leaves you exposed to robbery. Similarly, when you go to the beach, don’t bring any valuables with you. Bring enough cash for drinks or snacks and that’s it. Keep all your possessions with you (in a neat pile or a cheap, preferably local beach bag) within your line of vision; there are tales of tourists dozing in the sun and waking up to find their possessions gone. If you’re on your own and want to go swimming, ask someone to watch your stuff. This is very common on Brazilian beaches.

If you’re going to be taking money out at an ATM, make sure nobody is watching you. Even though ATMs are open until 10 p.m., the best time to take out money is during the day, in a busy area (preferably in an airport or shopping mall). Be careful on Sunday, when commercial areas are very quiet. Once again, if you’re withdrawing a lot of cash, put it in a money belt.

Major cities are the most problematic in terms of crime, although in major tourist destinations such as Rio and Salvador there has been a major effort to have police on patrol, which has increased safety in the most touristic areas. Nonetheless, always have your wits about you. In smaller towns, rural areas, and beach destinations, you will definitely feel more relaxed. Crime is much lower, and you can let your guard down somewhat (although don’t be lulled into complete carelessness).

While in the South and Southeast, it’s easier to blend in physically with the local population; in the North and Northeast, if you are of fair European stock you will often stand out simply because of your physical type. Gringos are uniformly considered easy targets, not only because they are all thought to be rich, but because they are often careless. One thing to do is try to camouflage yourself: get a bit of a tan, don’t talk loudly in a foreign language, and try to dress like the locals (casually, but smartly, no flashy jewelry, expensive footwear, or fashionable designer duds). Also be careful about where you flash your camera, particularly if it has a big zoom lens. The smaller and more compact your camera, the better. Don’t unfold big maps in public or look like lost or unsure of where you’re going.

Without being neurotic, try to always be aware of where you are and what’s going on around you. Trust your instincts. If a bar, street, or neighborhood feels dodgy, make a fast exit. If you feel someone is watching you or following you, speed up your pace, cross the street, or enter a shop or public building.

Be aware of possible scams such as being approached by so-called officials at airports who want you to go with them (after you’ve come out of the arrivals section). Another notorious golpe (scam) is “Boa Noite Cinderela” (“Good Night Cinderella”), in which someone slips a drug into your drink and, while you’re knocked out, robs you blind. This trick usually befalls unsuspecting romantics who hook up with a potential conquest in a bar. If you find yourself in this situation, don’t leave your drink unguarded (such as by going to the bathroom).

Police

The North American or European association of police as (for the most part) a symbol of law and order doesn’t hold true in Brazil. When trouble occurs, most Brazilians avoid the police. Because police officers are grossly underpaid and subject to corruption and violence, it is sometimes difficult to distinguish them from the bandits and drug traffickers they are supposedly battling. This is, of course, a generalization, and there are exceptions to the rule.

In Brazil, there are various types of police. The most efficient (and well-paid, and thus less corrupt) of the bunch are the Polícia Federal, who deal with all matters concerning passports, visas, and immigration. They have offices at all international airports as well as at frontier posts and in state capitals, and are generally helpful. The Polícia Militar are a hangover from the era of military dictatorship. They dress in soldier-like khaki uniforms accessorized with tough lace-up boots and berets (even in the tropical heat). You’ll often see them supposedly keeping the peace on street corners. Although they can be rough with Brazilian indolents, they leave foreigners alone. The plainclothes Polícia Civil deal with solving crimes. If you’re robbed and you want to report the crime, in many places you’ll need to go to the nearest delegacia, or station.

Be prepared if you want an official report: You’ll need to wait in line, and nobody will speak English. Unless you really need a report for insurance purposes, you might want to just let it go. In a major city, such as Rio or Salvador, you’ll have better luck with a delegacia de turismo. This special police force specializes in crimes against foreign tourists, and some of their agents speak rudimentary English.

Theft

Most crime in Brazil takes place in poorer neighborhoods that you’ll probably never see. If you take all the precautions discussed, it’s not that likely that you’ll be robbed. Even if you are, in most cases it will consist of a furto (small theft) in which your pockets are picked or someone grabs your bag and takes off.

However, assaltos (holdups) do occur. In the event that you are held up by someone, do not resist. Although outside of favelas controlled by drug traffickers in major cities armed robbery is somewhat rare, you could find yourself being threatened with a knife or a broken bottle. Quickly and calmly hand over whatever the thief wants. It is a no-brainer between your money, watch, jewelry, or documents and your life.

Accidents happen when people get very upset or try to resist, making the robber nervous and prone to act impulsively. If you need to make a report to the police, try the special tourist police, delegacia de turismo, which you’ll find in major cities. Otherwise, you’ll have to deal with the overly worked and not always sympathetic Polícia Civil. Even if you do report a robbery, it’s extremely unlikely you’ll get your possessions back.

© Michael Sommers from Moon Brazil, 2nd Edition