Air

Because of Brazil’s vast distances, flying is an ideal way to get from one region to another in record time. After two years of chaos (2006–2007) in which a combination of traffic controller strikes, a significant rise in travelers, and congested airports resulted in enormous delays, canceled flights, and furious passengers running onto the tarmac, the situation has improved significantly, thanks to the rerouting of flights and expansion of runways in major airports.

Brazil’s airports are modern and very well equipped, often cleaner and more polished and pleasant than counterparts in the Northern Hemisphere (of course, they are mainly frequented by those who can afford to fly). They are inevitably equipped with cafés, restaurants, bookstores, boutiques, banks, and Internet cafés. So should your flight be delayed, you will not suffer by having to wait around for a couple of hours.

There are numerous daily flights available to and from Rio and São Paulo and all the state capitals. Prices between destinations in the Southeast, South, Brasília, and the Northeast are quite reasonable (although they are rising due to increasing fuel costs). Flights to cities in the Amazon, such as Manaus and Belém, cost quite a bit more. Due to lack of passable roads, the Amazon is a region where flying is a must (unless you want to spend days on a boat). Although there are many regional aerotaxis, it’s safest to stick to the main domestic operators.

In recent years, numerous domestic airlines have started up, while others have gone out of business. Currently, the major players are TAM (tel. 888/235-9826, www.tam.com.br) and GOL (tel. 0300/115-2121, www.voegol.com.br). To date, Varig (tel. 800/468-2744, www.varig.com), which recently went bankrupt and then was repurchased (by GOL) has fewer domestic routes than previously. Two recent upstarts include Web Jet (tel. 0300/21-01234, www.webjet.com.br) and Azul (www.voeazul.com.br).

The airlines now offer various fares depending on when you fly and how far in advance you book. Great promotions (such as paying full fare one way and receiving your return ticket for R$1 for certain routes) are often advertised online. Even if you don’t purchase online (with a credit card), you can comparison shop and then take your findings to any local travel agent, who can then purchase the ticket for you.

For the best fares, it’s worthwhile booking as far in advance as possible. Budget airlines pop up from time to time and it is worth checking with travel agents for alternatives. Depending on the conditions of your ticket, you can usually change your flight or get a refund (within 24 hours), although you might need to pay a fee. Confirm with the airline or travel agency beforehand.

Barring delays, flying within Brazil is usually a much less stressful experience than flying in Europe or North America. You can check in an hour before the flight’s departure (although make sure you factor in traffic delays), and security checks are refreshingly hassle-free and nonhumiliating. The carriers themselves are top of the line: clean, comfortable, with gracious cabin staff and (miracle of miracles!) free food and drink.

Bus

With the exception of the Amazon, you can get absolutely anywhere you want to go by bus. Brazil has an excellent bus system covering the entire country. Service between capital and major cities within the states and along the coasts is usually very efficient and will cost less than half the plane fare. Long-distance buses leave punctually (don’t be late), and the comfortable vehicles themselves (often Mercedes-Benz buses) are equipped with plush, fold-back seats, air-conditioning, bathrooms, TVs, and coolers with free mineral water.

Although bathrooms start out clean, by the end of the trip they are usually less so. When you buy your ticket, you can reserve your seat—choose one at the front or the middle of the bus (the bathroom is at the back). Also beware that air-conditioning can be very heavy duty. Make sure you have a sweater and long pants (or a towel or light blanket), or you will freeze to death. On overnight buses between major cities, you can opt for a deluxe leito bus. Leito means bed, and the large, fully reclining seats, which come with sheets and pillows, will lull you to sleep. Leitos usually cost 2–3 times as much as a regular bus but are cheaper than flying.

Buses are operated by hundreds of private companies (national, regional, and local), but prices are compatible between rivals. More and more companies have websites (listed throughout this guide) where you can check schedules and prices and even purchase tickets in advance. For shorter trips, advance purchase isn’t necessary, but for interstate travel, especially during high-season or holiday periods, it’s recommended you purchase your ticket in advance.

Although major companies sell tickets via travel agents, often your best (and only) option is to purchase them at the rodoviária, or bus terminal, where all companies have kiosks with schedules. When purchasing a ticket, specify you want it sem seguro (without insurance), an added fee that bequeaths a small sum of money to your loved ones should you be involved in a fatal bus crash (not likely).

Traveling by bus in Brazil is safe, but do keep an eye on your belongings at all times. Luggage stowed beneath the bus is quite secure (it can only be retrieved with a baggage claim). Otherwise, keep valuables close by, particularly at night, and take them with you at rest stops, Except for leitos, most long-distance buses make stops every 2–3 hours. This gives you a chance to stretch your legs, grab some food or a drink, and use a clean bathroom. It’s nonetheless advisable to bring some mineral water and a snack, such as biscuits (cookies), fruit, or nuts.

Driving

Driving in Brazil is not for the faint of heart. Brazilians have a love affair with speeding and are hardly sticklers for following the rules of the road. As the economy has improved in recent years, more and more people have purchased cars (on five-year installment plans), which means traffic in major cities is increasingly congested, and not just in Rio and São Paulo, whose traffic jams are nightmarish. In the Northeast and the North, the state of the roads can be dismal once you get out of the major cities, although main coastal highways are kept in good shape. Until recently, drunk driving was a major problem.

However, in July 2008, Brazil’s lamentable record for having one of the highest vehicle accident death tolls caused the government to enact the law of Zero Tolerance. This has resulted in police-organized blitzes around the country. Drivers are stopped arbitrarily and must take a Breathalyzer test. If even the slightest amount of alcohol is detected, you’re looking at a R$955 fine and a suspension from driving for one year. Whether this law will actually be enforced universally over the long run remains to be seen, but it’s always best to be on your guard when driving back from a long day at the beach (where it’s a Brazilian tradition to knock back more than a few).

Despite the pitfalls, there are some places where renting a car is a definite plus. For visiting natural attractions around big cities, having a car gives you much more freedom to hit off-the-beaten track places where buses don’t go (if they do, it’s likely they’ll make 200 local stops, or that the one daily departure is at 5 a.m.). Also, for beach hopping cars can come in very handy since you can hit secluded coves not accessible by bus. If you do rent a car, try to avoid traveling on big holiday weekends, when traffic is guaranteed to be atrocious. Also avoid driving at night.

Outside of major cities, roads are poorly lit and bumps and potholes are common. In more isolated regions, you could be a victim of a highway robbery. In cities, stick to main streets, especially at night. When parking, whether you need help or not, you’ll usually be guided into a space by an informal parking attendant. Aside from helping you back out, he’ll promise to watch over your car as well. Whether he does or not, it’s customary to tip him R$1–2 since he makes his living this way. Nonetheless, don’t leave any valuables in the car, even in the trunk.

An international driver’s license is more widely recognized than a foreign license, but the latter is valid for up to six months. Major international car rental chains such as Avis, Budget, Hertz, and Localiza can usually be found throughout all major cities and airports (numbers are listed throughout the guide). Rates for unlimited mileage range R$100–150 a day. Prices don’t necessarily include insurance, so check beforehand.

Taxis

Taxis are an efficient way of getting around cities—or to close-by beaches—and are considerably cheaper than in North America or Europe. You can flag one down anywhere. City cabs are metered and have two rates, or bandeiras. Bandeira 2, which is more expensive than Bandeira 1, is in effect after 8 p.m. and on Sundays and holidays, and sometimes during the “holiday” month of December. Sometimes, cab drivers will refer to a rate sheet—this happens when fares are raised but haven’t yet been factored into the meter.

If you hit it off with a cab driver, ask for his/her card. Often he/she will give you special rates for trips to airports or other long journeys. In small towns and for longer trips in cities, you can often propose a set price instead of paying the metered fare. Many airports have taxi kiosks where you prepay your fare according to distance. Although the fare is more expensive, these cabs are generally more comfortable, and you won’t have to worry about getting scammed.

Vans

In rural areas, along beaches, and increasingly in major cities such as Rio and Salvador, VW vans, also known as kombis or lotações, are an alternate and unofficial source of public transportation. The term lotação is the most apt of all—lotar means to fill up, and that’s precisely what these vans tend to do, stuffing as many people as possible inside. Although fares are similar to those you’ll pay on a bus, vans have the advantage of careening along at high speeds that will get you to your destination more quickly. In beach areas, particularly along the northeastern coasts, vans are much more frequent than local bus lines. Even if you don’t understand Portuguese, riding in a van can be a fun, if cramped, experience.

© Michael Sommers from Moon Brazil, 2nd Edition