Even in high season, there are always lots of places to stay in Bonito. For the backpacking crowd, you can’t beat Pousada Muito Bonito (Rua Colonel Pilad Rebuá 1448, tel. 67/3255-1645, www.muitobonito.com.br, R$80 d), a welcoming place with farmhouse flourishes and a friendly multilingual staff. Bright, spotless rooms range from single to quadruple. The pousada has its own on-site ecotourism agency.

Perched on a hill overlooking town, the Chale do Bosque (Rua Lício Borralho 100, tel. 67/3255-3213, www.chaledobosque.com.br, R$100–150 d) is an idyllic getaway. Six stone bungalows are decked out in rough-hewn, unpolished wood and sport verandas with panoramic views. High notes go to the comfy beds outfitted with goose feather pillows and patchwork quilts.

More centrally located is the Pirá Miúna (Rua Luís da Costa Leite 1792, tel. 67/3244-1058, www.piramiunahotel.com.br, R$120–220 d), an attractively modern lodge constructed out of “eco bricks,” with sizable, nicely appointed accommodations and inviting common areas, including a deck, pool, living area, and barbecue patio.

On the northwest edge of town, some 3 kilometers (2 miles) from the center, the Pousada Olho d’Agua (Rodovia Três Morros, tel. 67/3255-1430, www.pousadaolhodagua.com.br, R$134–197) offers a deliciously tranquil retreat. The lodge—also constructed out of “eco bricks”—is set in the midst of a lush wooded estate dotted with ponds and a lovely pool. The simple, appealing rooms are ensconced in bungalows, as are the main dining and living areas and the inviting bar. Service is high quality and you can take advantage of an in-house tour operator.

Bonito also has its share of fazenda hotels in the countryside. The advantage is that many have private access to rivers. The downside is their isolation from town (although some may see this as a plus). The most charming of them all, the Santa Esmeralda (Estrada Guia Lopes Km 17, tel. 67/3255-2833, www.hotelsantaesmeralda.com.br, R$215–275 d) is a stellar example of eco-chic—from the spacious private bungalows (accommodating up to six people) with living rooms and verandas to the extremely enticing restaurant, bars, and lounge areas. However, the real attraction is the estate itself: a vast area of verdant rolling hills with nature trails, natural pools, and access to the Rio Formoso (the hotel provides flutuação gear as well as kayaks). Prices include dinner as well as breakfast.