On Praia dos Milionários, Cabana Gabriela (tel. 73/3632-1836, 8 a.m.–8 p.m. daily, R$15–25) and Armação (tel. 73/3632-1817, 11 a.m.–5 p.m. daily, R$15–25) both offer delicious fish and seafood. In town, an Ilhéus classic is Bar Vesúvio (Praça Dom Eduardo 190, tel. 73/3634-2164, 11 a.m.–2 a.m., R$25–40). Built in 1919, it has appeared in several of Jorge Amado’s novels and is a local institution. The menu is a mix of Arab and Bahian specialties.

Even if you’re not hungry, take a seat at one of the sidewalk tables, order a beer, and engage in some people-watching. Live music is played nightly. Both Arab and Bahian dishes are also available (along with other international fare) at Sheik (Oiteiro de São Sebastião, tel. 73/3634-2679, 6 p.m.–last client Mon.–Sat.), considered to be the finest restaurant in the center of town. Perched on top of a hill, it also possesses an unforgettable view. There is often live music at night.