In Caravelas itself, two low-key and attractive options are the Pousada Canto do Atobá (Av. Adalício Nogueira 515, tel. 73/3297-1009, http://pousadacantodoatoba.wordpress.com, R$60–90), which has pleasant if simple rooms and a pool, and Pousada Liberdade (Av. Adalício Nogueira 1551, tel. 73/3297-2067, www.pousadaliberdade.com.br, R$110), with bright and airy chalets spread in a garden amply shaded by palm, mango, and cashew trees.

More upscale and with a privileged beach location is the Hotel Marina Porto Abrolhos (Rua da Baleia 333, Praia de Grauça, tel. 73/3674-1082, www.marinaportoabrolhos.com.br, R$175–195 d). The breezy rooms are in individual bungalows crowned by palm thatching and surrounded by plenty of swaying trees.

In terms of food, take advantage of the abundance of fresh fish and seafood and head to the Encontro dos Amigos (Rua das Palmeiras 370, tel. 73/3297-1600, 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m. daily, R$10–20). Considered the best seafood restaurant in town, it serves up classic Bahian shrimp and fish moquecas as well as octopus risottos.

Also good for seafood is the rustic Carenagem (Rua das Palmeiras 210, tel. 73/3297-1280, 10:30 a.m.–last client, daily, R$10–20), whose copious signature dish, called sinfonia de peixe (“fish symphony”), includes not only fish, but oysters, crab, and shrimp.