Most of Dangriga’s eateries are open only during meal times, so expect some closed doors in the middle of the afternoon and on Sundays, when only the Chinese restaurants are open. Your best value is probably King Burger, on the left as you cross the North Stann Creek bridge from the south (7 a.m.–3 p.m. and 6–10 p.m. Mon.–Sat.). It offers excellent ice cream, breakfast, fresh juices, sandwiches, shakes, and simple comfort dinners.

Another standby is the Riverside Café (7 a.m.–9 p.m. daily). It’s popular with travelers (boats to the cayes leave from right outside) and a gathering spot for local fishers. Grab a table or belly up to the bar and order a Guinness with your eggs and beans to fit in with the locals.; it’s US$4.50 for stew chicken, US$6 and up for fish and shrimp. For something different, try the cassava fries.

If you want cheaper food, walk back to the main drag and grab a fistful of street tacos for a few coins. Street barbecues are another common sight, offering a plate of grilled chicken with flour tortillas, baked beans, and coleslaw for about US$2.50. There are a few local shacks with great dishes for US$3 and under; start with Roots Kitchen back on Ecumenical Drive, just a wooden shack with real Belizean food, open all day from 6 a.m.

For Chinese the best are Starlight (8 a.m.–11 p.m. daily, closed afternoons), on the north end of Commerce Street, and Sunlight, with good food and crappy service on the south end of Commerce Street. There is “fry chicken to take” at any number of Chinese shops.

Dangriga’s only proper restaurant is found at the Pelican Beach Resort (tel. 501/522-2044, www.pelicanbeachbelize.com) on the north end of town, where delicious food is prepared by Creole cooks and served in the dining room or in an open beachside eating area. The happy hour on Thursday and Friday is 5–9 p.m. and is very popular, especially on the 15th and 30th of each month (paydays).