For a relaxed dose of “old Caye Caulker,” check into one of the funky beachfront cabins at Morgan’s Inn (tucked away in a cluster of palms near the old cemetery, tel. 501/226-0178, siwaban [at] gmail [dot] com, US$28–40); cabins are spacious and rustic. Kayaks and windsurfing are available. Owner Ellen McRae is a marine biologist and birder who can guide interested groups.

The colorful building on your right as you get off of the water taxi is Trends Beachfront Hotel (tel. 501/226-0094, www.trendsbze.com, US$35–40), with seven rooms, comfortable queen-sized beds, refrigerators, fans, and private baths.

The bright Rainbow Hotel (Front. St., tel. 501/226-0123, www.rainbowhotel-cayecaulker.com, US$35–52) has 17 clean, stucco rooms with hot and cold water, private baths, TV, and tile floors; there are also two suites: La Casita and Cielo Azul. The popular Rainbow Bar and Grill is across the street on a dock over the water.

The seven wood cabins at Mara’s Place (by the split, tel. 501/600-0080, from US$43) are a great value, with private hot-water baths and small porches with hammocks. The property has a private dock with lounge chairs for guests to use and an outdoor communal kitchen.

Ocean Pearl Royale Hotel (tel. 501/226-0074, oceanpearl [at] btl [dot] net, US$25) is on a side street before the split. There are 10 rooms, with wireless Internet, around a communal living area and kitchen with fridge, microwave, and coffeemaker. In the pretty garden is a cabana for rent by the week (US$250) or month (US$600).

The Blue Wave Guest House (Front. St., tel. 501/206-0114, www.bluewaveguesthouse.com, US$20) has rooms with shared bath, an outdoor communal kitchen, wireless Internet and a private dock.