Islands Near Dangriga
Glover’s Reef Atoll
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True, this coral uprising and five-caye phenom could be lumped together under “other islands,” but if you’ve ever cruised 36 miles over an ocean of warm glass and seen the bright sea-green strip of Glover’s Reef shine from the horizon, you would agree that this is truly a place apart from the rest of Belize—and the rest of the world.
The southernmost of Belize’s unique atolls, Glover’s (named for a pirate, of course) is an 80-square-mile nearly continuous ring of brilliant coral, flanked on its southeastern curve by five tiny islands. The atoll is 18 miles long and six miles across at its widest point; to the east, the ocean bottom drops sharply and keeps on dropping, eventually to depths of 15,000 feet at the western end of the Caiman Trench, one of the deepest in the world.
The southern section of the atoll around the cayes serves as a protected marine reserve—however, someone should remind the government Fishery Department Rangers on Middle Caye of this fact, as they reportedly regularly skip patrols and ignore illegal fishing activity (although they’re very efficient at collecting tourist fees).
Divers and snorkelers will find a fabulous wall surrounding the atoll, plus more than 700 shallow coral patches within the rainbow-colored lagoon. There are wreck dives and an abundance of marine life, especially turtles, manta rays, and all types of sharks, including reefs, hammerheads, and whale sharks. The names of the dive sites speak for themselves: Shark Point, Grouper Flats, Emerald Forest Reef, Octopus Alley, Manta Reef, Dolphin Dance, and Turtle Tavern.
Anglers will have a chance at bonefish and permit, as well as the big trophies, including sailfish, marlin, wahoo, snapper, and grouper. There is also fantastic paddling, sailing, and anything else you can dream up. Glover’s is a special place indeed.
Southwest Cayes
The first bit of land you’ll reach from the mainland used to be a single island until Hurricane Hattie carved a channel through it in 1961. Now the southern part is the defunct Manta Resort, while the northern bit is owned by the Usher clan and consists of the high-end, full-service Isla Marisol Resort (tel. 501/520-2056, www.islamarisolresort.com). If you’re serious about world-class diving and fishing, look into a stay at one of the many comfortable cabanas or reef house; there are many all-inclusive packages available.
Island Expeditions (U.S./Can. tel. 800/667-1630, www.islandexpeditions.com) is an adventure travel outfitter with a tent camp on the north tip of Southwest Caye; it’s a well-run, professional operation.
Middle Caye
No accommodations here, unless you’re a Government of Belize Fisheries Department Ranger or marine biologist with the Wildlife Conservation Society. If staying on one of the surrounding cayes, ask your host about arranging a trip to see what’s going on here.
Long Caye
The 13 acres here form the gorgeous backdrop to Slickrock Adventures’ thatch-roof base camp (U.S. tel. 800/390-5715, www.slickrock.com); check out their website for a range of active Belize adventures. Slickrock has a veritable armada of kayaks, sailboards, and other water toys; conditions and equipment will cover beginners and experts alike. Guests stay in very private rustic beach cabins overlooking the reef and equipped with kerosene lamps, foam pad mattresses, and great views. Outhouse toilets are of the plein air variety, surrounded by palm leaf “walls”—possibly the best views from a WC in the entire country. Book a trip to their island, or link it with wild inland adventures as well (call for a catalog).
Long Caye is also home to Off the Wall Dive Center (tel. 501/614-6348, offthewall [at] btl [dot] net, www.offthewallbelize.com), Jim and Kendra Schofield’s dive shop and resort. Dive packages are available with Off the Wall, whose facilities consist of a top-notch dive shop, bar, and gift shop, plus a couple of rustic cabanas which can accommodate six people on week-long charter trips—package prices include seven days’ lodging, transport, all meals, and 12 dives. Diving, snorkeling, and fishing are available as well, and yachties are welcome to come ashore and browse the gift shop.
Northeast Caye
At Glover’s Atoll Resort and Island Lodge, run by the Lomont family out of their Glover’s Guest House in Sittee River (tel. 501/520-5016 or 614-7177, www.glovers.com.bz), you’ll get a true Gilligan’s Island experience. They’ve got a 68-foot catamaran to whisk you out to Glover’s most remote caye, where you will camp or shack up for the cheapest weekly rates on the atoll: US$99 for a week of camping, $149 to stay in the dorm, $199–269 for rustic cabins. These per-person prices include transport and a week’s worth of primitive lodging and use of the kitchen, nothing more.
Show up at the Guesthouse in Sittee River at 7 a.m. Saturday, and be prepared for the week—this means asking plenty of questions so you know exactly what is available and what will cost you extra once you’re out there. You’re welcome to bring all your own food (a kitchen is available) and drinking water, or pay about US$30/day to be served. A dive shop and kayak rentals are also available, and the snorkeling is world-class.
Note: Although many clients of Glover’s Atoll Resort have positive experiences, others do not, though this seems to result from guests not being prepared for the primitiveness of the experience and in some cases, having personality clashes with Glover’s Atoll Resort staff.
Perhaps the best advice comes from the satisfied customer who wrote: “Glover’s isn’t a slick ‘eco-resort’…It is part of the home of the family that founded it. The accommodations are basic and easy and carefree, and meant to be like that—which is a good thing. If you need hair dryers and chocolate on your pillows, or if you’re going to freak out because something was done a little late, or if you were expected to do something yourself, or if you saw a bug on your pillow, then please go elsewhere and leave Glover’s Atoll Resort for the rest of us who appreciate it the way it is.”
© Joshua Berman and Avalon Travel from Moon Belize, 7th Edition
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