The ruins of Lamanai huddle to one side of New River Lagoon and sprawl westward through the forest and under the village of Indian Church (which was relocated by the government from one part of the site to another in 1992). It is reachable by boat from Orange Walk or by road from San Felipe. The Institute of Archaeology has done a great deal of work at this site, and the main temples are impressive even to the uneducated eye. The High Temple can be climbed to yield a 360-degree view of the surrounding jungle and lagoon.

With the advent of midday cruise ship tours, the site boasts a new dock, visitor center, craft shops, and museum. Lamanai is also a popular site for day-trippers from Ambergris Caye and can be quite crowded in the middle of the day, especially during the week. If you want a more solitary experience, go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, as cruise ship crowds arrive at noon and disappear in less than two hours. The reserve is open to the public 8 a.m.–5 p.m.

Tour Operators

All regional tour operators in Orange Walk, Corozal, and Belize City offer tours to Lamanai. Tour providers throughout San Pedro and Caye Caulker also transfer guests into the interior, where they often subcontract local boats and guides for the trip to the ruins. Most tours include entrance fee, drinks, and a catered lunch as part of the deal; prices range from US$40–60 per person. The cruise up the New River is far more pleasant and faster than driving.

If you are staying locally (in Orange Walk or Indian Church), you can choose from night safaris, bird-watching tours, and sunrise trips up and down the New River.

Jungle River Tours (20 Lovers Ln., tel. 501/302-2293 or 615-1712) is the oldest operating guide service, with the reputation of giving the best tours of Lamanai. Their boats leave from docks near Banquitas Plaza in Orange Walk. Reyes & Sons Tour Guides (tel. 501/322-3327) has a dock at the Tower Hill Toll Bridge. Lamanai EcoAdventures (tel. 501/322-3653 or 610-1753) also has a dock just south of the Tower Hill Toll Bridge, as does New River Cruises.

For local guides, your lodge or hotel will undoubtedly offer the services of licensed Lamanai tour guides. Indian Church has an incredible pool of capable guides to choose from, especially the eagle-eyed Ruben Arevalo, who also teaches kindergarten in nearby San Carlos. Ruben is a wealth of knowledge and contacts in the area.

Also check with Beyond Touring (www.beyondtouring.com); this grassroots tour operator and travel specialist has a lot of experience in the Indian Church and Lamanai areas and also has a very helpful website.