At Mile 8, you’ll find a turnoff to the left for Chechem Ha Farm (tel. 501/820-4063), a mile or so down a rutted road and belonging to the Morales family. The place is designed to give nature-loving tourists the chance to enjoy the Chechem Ha Spring, Chechem Ha Falls (a 175-foot cascade with a treacherous trail down to its misty bottom), and Chechem Ha Cave, a dry cave—except for the dripping water that has created all the formations over the years.

The pottery inside is estimated to be as much as 2,000 years old. You can climb and explore various ledges and passageways, but the highlight is a deep ceremonial chamber in the heart of the hill. In some places, you need a rope to help you get around. While those of average physical abilities can enjoy Chechem Ha Cave, take care when moving amid the pottery.

Stay at the farm in one of several simple cabins made of clay, rock, wood, and thatch; they are well constructed and comfy looking. For US$41 per person, you get a night’s stay and three meals (no electricity, outhouses). Camping is US$5 per person; bring your own tent. Individual meals are available (US$5–10), as is an inexpensive transfer from Benque.