Belize

Cayo and the Mountain Pine Ridge

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Between the Caribbean coast “and the inhabited part of Central America is a wilderness, unbroken even by an Indian path. There is no communication with the interior except by the Golfo Dolce or the Balize River; and, from the want of roads, a residence there is more confining than living on an island.”

Thus wrote John Lloyd Stephens of Belize’s western highlands in the 19th century, well before the construction of the Western Highway that now zips travelers from Belize City to the Guatemalan border in under two hours. Still, there remains a remote feeling to the largest and most temperate of Belize’s six districts that many intrepid travelers find quite attractive. And, as you move away from the small number of roads in Belize’s western core, Stephens’ words are as true as ever—it really is a jungle out there. So put away that mask and snorkel and catch a fire in Cayo!

The Cayo District’s broad eastern edge is home to Belmopan, Belize’s tiny capital; its western side comprises Belize’s steep, remote interior, which runs into Guatemala’s massive Petén forests. This area is serviced by the small city of San Ignacio, a cool town in every sense of the word. Cayo’s own version of Belize’s tourism boom is based on a long and varied menu of activities, trips, and tours—and a unique selection of accommodations to house so many weary explorers. The area offers an extensive and varied selection of mountain cabanas, jungle lodges, and river resorts, any one of which can serve to feed and shelter the active traveler in between caving, biking, and paddling expeditions. Accommodations range from backcountry campgrounds and elvish tree houses to luxuriously exclusive hideaways.

Cayo boasts a rich mixture of people, places, and creatures. Maya, Mennonites, mestizos, Anglos, Lebanese, Creoles, Guatemalans, and Chinese all commingle in government, commerce, agriculture, and tourism. The Maya Mountains, Vaca Plateau, and Mountain Pine Ridge are important geological features, and several major rivers drain the highlands, including the Branch, Macal, Mopan, and Sibun. Savanna, broadleaf jungle, and pinelands form a patchwork of habitats for a wide diversity of flora and fauna.

At one time, the majority of the people in Cayo were mestizos. In those days, this bustling area depended mostly on the forests, especially at the port of San Ignacio, where logs and chicle were sent down the river to the sea, then shipped across the world’s oceans. Access to the area around San Ignacio, bordered on two sides by rivers, was limited to river traffic. Thus arose the name, Cayo, or “island” in Spanish (San Ignacio Town used to be called “Cayo,” and many locals still call it that). Today, while many residents are descendants of the original settlers, a great many are refugees from unsettled areas in Guatemala and El Salvador. Cayo District still relies on its natural resources, producing some lumber, but also dealing in new agricultural ventures (citrus, peanuts, and cattle) and, of course, serving as a booming tourist center.

The Best of Belize’s Cayo District

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