Trails

Hiking trails, from wide, 150-year-old paths created by Amerindians or shepherds to smaller, more recent trails worn by hikers, crisscross the Sierra de la Laguna. Signposts are scarce—it’s a good idea to scout an area first and ask questions locally about the best way to get from point A to point B. Although it’s sometimes tempting to venture off established trails, that’s a good way to get lost; you might also contribute to the destruction of delicate ecosystems. Light trails that don’t seem to go anywhere may be cattle or coyote trails that connect surface water sources.

Maps

Topographic maps, which chart trails and elevation differentials, are essential for extended hiking and backpacking. Map Link (U.S. tel. 805/692-6777 or 800/962-1394, www.maplink.com) and Map Centre (U.S. tel. 619/291-3830 or 888/849-6277, www.mapcentre.com) carry a complete line of Baja topo maps in three scales (1:1,000,000, 1:250,000, and 1:50,000), sold separately according to region. The maps cost around US$13–15 each. Mexico Maps (U.S. tel. 805/687-1011, www.mexicomaps.com) offers GPS maps and digital maps, for some areas, as well as printed topo maps.

These same topographic maps are also available in Baja from the Instituto Nacional de Estadística, Geografía e Informática (INEGI) office in La Paz (Plaza Cuatro Molinos, Calle Altamirano 2790, Col. Centro, tel. 612/123-1545 or 612/122-4146, www.inegi.gob.mx) for about US$4 per sheet. Some topos may be out of print, in which case you can usually obtain a photocopy of archival prints from an INEGI office for US$6. These maps show not only trails and contour lines, but villages not normally marked on other maps.

Although you won’t need a great deal of Spanish to read the INEGI maps, you might need to know the following translations for the map legend:

• brecha—gravel road
• vereda—path
• terracería transitable en todo tiempo—all-weather dirt road
• terracería transitable en tiempo de secas—dirt road passable only in dry weather
• carretera pavimentada—paved highway
• carretera de más de dos carriles, caseta de pago—toll highway of more than two lanes

What to Bring

For a hike of a day or less, all you need is sturdy footwear (light, high-topped hiking boots are preferable to sneakers in rocky terrain) and whatever food or water you plan to consume for the day. Count on at least two liters of water per person for chaparral or lower sierra day hiking, more if the weather is hot.

Longer hikes obviously require more preparation and equipment. Bring enough clothing to remain comfortable at both ends of the temperature spectrum; on the Pacific side of the sierra, days tend to be warm, nights chilly. A three-season backpacking tent and a light sleeping bag rated for temperatures down to 2°C (35°F) usually suffice for shelter.

Good hiking boots are essential. Thick lug soles with steel shanks are preferable, as they provide protection from sharp rocks and spiny plants. Bring along a first-aid kit that includes an elastic bandage for sprains and snakebite treatment as well as a pair of tweezers for removing thorns and cactus spines. Also pack a flashlight, compass, waterproof matches, a knife, extra batteries, foul-weather gear, and a signal device (mirror or whistle).

Always carry plenty of water: a minimum of five liters per person per full day of walking during hot weather, two liters in winter. Although springs and tinajas exist in the sierra, the water level varies considerably, and you shouldn’t count on finding water sources along the way. If you need drinking water from one of these sources, always boil it first for at least 10 minutes or treat it with iodine or a water filter designed to remove impurities. Bring enough food for the duration of your hike (count on about 1.5 pounds of dry food per person per day), plus an extra one or two days’ worth. One to three nestable pans will suffice for up to six hikers, along with a spoon, small plastic bowl, and cup for each person.

Camping Tips

In addition to all the usual rules for choosing campsites, don’t camp beneath coconut palms (a falling coconut could knock down your tent or fracture your skull) or in arroyos (danger of flash floods).

Open fires are permitted just about anywhere in the Cape Region except within city limits. Dead or fallen hardwood is plentiful in the upper sierra; lower down, cactus skeletons—especially pitahaya and cholla—make excellent fuel. Scrap lumber suitable for firewood can sometimes be salvaged from town dumps. Imitate the locals and keep your fires small. Never leave hot coals or ashes behind; smother with sand—or water, if you can spare it—till cool to the touch.

Pack out all trash that won’t burn, including cigarette butts; they take 10–12 years to decompose. Bury human waste six inches down, and don’t use soap in streams or springs.

If you happen to have the blessed opportunity to camp on any of the Sea of Cortez islands such as Espíritu Santo, Cerralvo, or Partida, check your bags thoroughly before landing on the island to make sure you haven’t inadvertently brought along any animal species (including insects or insect eggs) that aren’t native to the island. Such introduced species can cause havoc on fragile island ecologies. Pack out all human waste as well as trash; carrying along a port-a-potty and deep-sixing its contents at sea after you leave the island is the most convenient way to deal with the former.

© Nikki Goth Itoi from Moon Baja, 9th Edition