Ensenada is the unofficial capital of Mexico’s finest winemaking region, northwestern Baja California. Most Canadians and Americans are unaware of the quality of Mexican wines and assume beer and tequila are all the country has to offer.

On the contrary, bajacaliforniano wines are shipped all over Mexico and western Europe, but because of U.S. and Canadian trade policies, they weren’t exported north of the border until recent years. They’re still difficult to find in Canada and the United States, but this may change as NAFTA reaches full implementation in 2009.

The highest concentration of wineries—more than two dozen at last count—are located in the 14-mile-long Valle de Guadalupe, located off Mexico 3, northeast of Ensenada. The introduction of stainless steel tanks and temperature-controlled barrels at many of these vineyards have helped put Baja wines on the world map.

But you can still enjoy personal service and, often, time with the winemakers themselves as you make your way through the valley. Spring and summer are the most popular time to visit, though Mexican holiday weekends also draw a crowd.

You might start your tour at the west end of Guadalupe Valley in the village of San Antonio de las Minas.

At Vinisterra (Km 94.5, tel. 646/178-3350, www.vinisterra.com, Sat. 11 a.m.–4:30 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.–3 p.m.), Abelardo and Patricia Macouzet Rodriguez offer a cabernet sauvignon–merlot blend, tempranillo, and other award-winning wines.

Inquire about the award-winning merlot at family-owned Viña de Liceaga (Km 93.5, tel. 646/155-3093, www.vinosliceaga.com, Mon.–Fri. 8 a.m.–3 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 11 a.m.–3 p.m.). Choose from several tasting options for US$3–5. Reservations recommended.

Nearby, contemporary Casa de Piedra (Km 93.5, tel. 646/155-3097, www.vinoscasadepiedra.com) offers tastings in a farmhouse setting. Reservations required. Once a year, it offers a four-weekend wine-making seminar. La Casa Vieja (Km 93.5, tel. 646/155-3153, lacasavieja.baja [at] hotmail [dot] com) opens daily at 9 a.m. and closes at sunset, or whenever the crowd disperses. In addition to tastings, this winery has a deli, arts and crafts store, and information center onsite.

Chateau Camou (tel. 646/177-2221, www.chateau-camou.com.mx, Mon.–Sat. 10 a.m.–4 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.) specializes in expensive Bordeaux-style reds. It offers three tasting/tour options: Try four wines and a tour for US$5, six tastings and a tour for US$10, or a tour with the winemaker and a complete tasting including a barrel sample for US$40.

Next up, Mogor Badán (Km 86.5, tel. 646/177-1484, abadan [at] cicese [dot] mx) is a combination organic produce farm; vineyard; and winery with tours, tastings, and shopping. Reservations required.

Baja’s most acclaimed winery, Monte Xanic (tel. 646/174-6769, www.montexanic.com, Mon.–Fri. 9 a.m.–4 p.m., Sat. 8 a.m.–noon), produces 50,000 cases of wine per year, and many of its labels have won awards in the United States, Canada, and Mexico. The winery charges US$4 for tasting whites and an additional US$4 for reds. Reservations required.

Housed in an adobe brick building, Barón Balché (El Porvenir, tel. 646/183-9501, www.baronbalche.com, daily 10 a.m.–4 p.m.) is another winery using the latest technology to make boutique wines—10,000 cases a year.

The largest winery in the region—and in all of Latin America—Italian-owned L. A. Cetto (Km 73.5, tel. 646/155-2264, www.cettowine.com or www.lacetto.com, daily 10 a.m.–3 p.m.) has gardens and a picnic area, as well as an inviting tasting room. You can tour the winery without reservations, and there are no tasting or tour fees.

Past L. A. Cetto, La Casa de Doña Lupe (Rancho La Gotita, Francisco Zarco, www.donalupe.com, daily 9 a.m.–sunset) tempts visitors with home-baked goods, as well as farm-fresh cheese, honey, and produce and organically grown wines.

In the same vicinity, you’ll pay US$2.50 to taste the tempranillo, graciano, and mazuelo varietals at Casa Pedro Domecq (Km 73.5, tel. 646/155-2333, www.vinosdomecq.com.mx, Mon.–Fri. 10 a.m.–4 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.–5 p.m.). The fee includes a cellar tour, plus use of a picnic area on the grounds.