Hotels and Camping
Budget travelers can rent a cottage for US$35 a night at Viños Sueños (tel. 646/179-4763, 9 A.M.–5 P.M. daily), a winery in Francisco Zarco.
Warm colors set the tone in affordable rooms at El Mezon del Vino (tel. 664/162-9010, www.hotelmesondelvino.com, US$80). The hotel has a restaurant (8 A.M.–7 P.M. weekends) for wine-tasting as well as breakfast and lunch.
Tuscan-style La Villa del Valle (6 km west of Mexico 3 from Km. 88, btw San Antonio de las Minas/Ejido El Porvenirtel. 646/183-9249, U.S. tel. 818/207-7130, www.lavilladelvalle.com, US$175–195) stands atop a hill on 28 hectares with sweeping views of surrounding vineyards, orchards, and gardens. Four of its six rooms have private balconies; all have luxury linens and many more elegant touches. In between tastings, guests relax by the pool or soak in the hot tub, book a massage on-site, or play a game of bocce ball. Rates include full breakfast, an afternoon glass of wine and botanas, and Wi-Fi access. There is a two-night minimum on weekends.
Near the Monte Xanic and Chateau Camou wineries, the Adobe Guadalupe B&B (Francisco Zarco, tel. 646/155-2094, www.adobeguadalupe.com, US$190) was the first winery to offer accommodations in the valley. The 24-hectare winery offers six guestrooms in a rambling adobe-walled, hacienda-style complex. Rates include a complete breakfast served at a common table in the huge kitchen. Other meals may be arranged at additional cost.
You can camp on a 32-hectare farm at Bibayoff–Bodegas Valle de Guadalupe (tel. 646/177-2722, bibayoff [at] telnor [dot] net), run by a Russian family in San Antonio de las Minas. Exit Mexico 3 at El Tigre and follow the dirt road to Rancho Bibayoff. The Kumiai have opened a campground just north of L. A. Cetto Winery. Some say it resembles a California state park at the turn of the 20th century. Sites cost US$5, and services include firewood, water, showers, and a general store. Guided hikes, horseback riding, cultural displays, and crafts are also available. Reservations are required. Contact Horacio Moncada at tel. 646/178-8093 or 646/118-9113.
© Nikki Goth Itoi from Moon Baja, 9th Edition