Day 1

Cross the U.S.–Mexico border at San Ysidro after the morning rush hour and head south through Tijuana and onto the toll road.

Stop in Rosarito for lunch at El Nido. Sit in the shaded back patio if it’s not too hot and try the locally raised quail and venison dishes. Walk off lunch by cutting through the Rosarito Beach Hotel and onto the pier that runs 600 yards out over the Pacific.

If you have extra time, take the libre south out of Rosarito and stop in the housewares stores along the roadside in Popotla.

If walking and shopping are too tame, keep an eye out between Km 34 and 35 for the Inner Reef Surf Shop. Rent a board and ask the staff for the best break to visit for the conditions that day.

The total driving time from Tijuana to Ensenada will be less than two hours on the cuota and around 2.5 hours on the libre, depending on traffic.

When you arrive in Ensenada, check into the Corona Hotel. Hit the downtown area for dinner, and then head north to Hussong’s Cantina for a beer. If the spirit moves you, walk to the corner and join the party at Papas and Beer until the wee hours of the morning.

Day 2

If you weren’t out too late and you’ve called ahead, hop on a chartered fishing boat with Sergio’s Sportfishing Center. The rock fishing nearby can be excellent; during the winter months there are whale-watching tours.

Back on the docks, take your catch to a vendor in the Mercado de Mariscos to have them cook up a custom batch of fish tacos.

Spend the afternoon strolling the shops along López Mateos and visit La Esquina de Bodegas for some preliminary wine tasting.

In the late afternoon make your way north out of Ensenada to Route 3. A green overhead sign will welcome you to the Ruta del Vino. Check into the Tuscan-style La Villa del Valle for the next two nights, and grab a casual dinner at La Casa Vieja.

Day 3

After breakfast at the Villa, hang out by the pool until Steve Dryden, your personal guide to the wine country, arrives in a custom motor coach. He’ll take you on a tour of some of the leading Baja wineries, including L. A. Cetto, Monte Xanic, and Chateau Camou. Remember to carefully choose the single bottle you’re allowed to take back home.

You’ll appreciate the designated driver on your way to a truly unique dining experience at Restaurant Laja. Gourmands flock to this restaurant, calling it a “south of the border Chez Panisse.”

Retreat to the Villa del Valle for some much-earned rest.

Day 4

An after-breakfast massage at the hotel will prepare you for the drive home. If you have time, goof off at Foxploration and grab a lobster roll in Puerto Nuevo on your way north. Get to the border crossing before 3 p.m. on a weekday if you can. If you’re crossing on a Sunday, you’ll have plenty of time to reflect on your trip as you crawl through traffic back into the United States.

© Nikki Goth Itoi from Moon Baja, 9th Edition