Restaurant Migriño (Km. 102, Mexico 19, no tel., hours vary, mains U$5), on the west side of the highway, serves basic antojitos and refreshingly cold beer.
Another road stop is the dirt-floored Los Idolos de Mexico (Km. 79, Mexico 19, no tel., hours vary, mains US$5). They keep it simple but tasty with carnitas and tacos de pescado and de camarón.
Lonchería Rosita (tel. 612/130-3094, 8 A.M.–8 P.M. daily, mains US$5), on the east side of Mexico 19, near the Pemex, is small with a palapa roof. Try its pork tamales or machaca burritos.
The friendly Marina’s (Km. 62, no tel., mains US$3–7) offers a nice variety of fish and shrimp tacos, plus quesadillas, a soup of the day, and the huge cheese/carne asada mixto (US$3).
Popular with locals and expats alike for its casual fare, Felipe’s Restaurant (Km. 61, Mexico 19, no tel., hours vary Wed.–Mon., mains around US$8) makes delicious Mexican and seafood dishes at nongringo prices for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. This place serves an excellent shrimp chile relleno and even better arrachera.
Grill your own kebabs at the Sandbar (Km. 63, Mexico 19, tel. 612/130-3209, 3 P.M. till late Wed.–Sat. and Mon., 9 A.M.–10 P.M. Sun.) or just pop in for daily happy-hour specials as well as weekly all-you-can-eat pizza. Show up for all-you-can-eat spaghetti on Thursdays, reggae night with live music on Fridays (for which there is a US$2–3 cover charge), and disco nights on Saturdays.
The Los Cerritos Club (Km. 66.5, Mexico 19, Playa Los Cerritos, tel. 624/143-4850, cell tel. 624/129-6315, 7 A.M.–8 P.M. daily, mains US$5–20) is the perfect place for a beer and a burger after a good surfing session and to enjoy the sunset. Live music plays Friday and Saturday nights.
Regulars praise Art & Beer (Km. 69, Mexico 19, no tel., hours vary) for large signature cocktails—creative variations on the Bloody Mary—which comes generously garnished with all manner of shellfish. You must agree to buy a drink or a meal in order to view the art on display. When it’s time to go, your eccentric hosts, Alfredo and Lourdes, may offer up a beer for the road. Fish dishes cost US$20.
Rancho Pescadero (tel. 612/135-5849, www.ranchopescadero.com, 7 A.M.–9 P.M. daily) serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner during the high season, November–May. Dinner mains such as posole verde, fish/pasta of the day, and grilled rib eye range US$20–30.
Mini Super Los Arcos (no tel.) on Mexico 19 stocks basic groceries, and the owners welcome special orders.
Mini Super Los Cerritos (Km. 63, Mexico 19, no tel.) sells cold beer and ice as well as some arts and crafts. At Km. 61 you can buy strawberries direct from the farmers at US$1–2 per basket.
© Nikki Goth Itoi from Moon Baja, 9th Edition