Basic food supplies line the shelves of several markets in town, including Mercadito Guluarte (next to Hotel Guluarte), Tienda Disconsa (Colegio Militar), Super Mercado Hermanos González (Pedrajo), and Supermercado El Sol (Degollado, open till 10 P.M. nightly). A second El Sol is on the road to Playa La Pastora one block west of Hacienda Inn Todos Santos.
La Siempre Viva (Juárez and Márquez de León, open from 7 A.M.) sells meats, cheeses, produce, and honey from local farms and ranches. It usually opens an hour or two earlier than the competition, and it carries some household goods and ranch supplies in addition to groceries.
The government-subsidized ISSSTE Tienda (Juárez btw Zaragoza/Morelos) offers an ever-changing selection of inexpensive groceries and holds a fairly well-stocked pharmacy.
Panadería Todos Santos (Rangel and Ocampo, 2–8 P.M. or until sold out Mon.–Sat.) sells a full lineup of Mexican breads, including bolillos and pan dulce—all baked in a wood-fired oven. The bakery occupies an unsigned two-story brick building at the north end of Calle Rangel near Ocampo. Bread lovers enjoy it, as there aren’t many places like this one around.
You can buy fresh tortillas de maíz for about US$1 per kilo at the Super Tortillería de Todos Santos (Colegio Militar btw Morelos/Márquez de León). Head to Punta Lobos to buy fresh seafood directly from the pangueros. Closer to town, Pescadería Todos Santos (Degollado btw Cuauhtémoc/Carrillo, hours vary) carries a sampling of the local catch. Bodega Lizarraga, at Colegio Militar and Obregón, has the biggest selection of fruits and vegetables in town, and it’s without question the cleanest.
Homemade ice cream awaits at Paletería la Paloma (8 A.M.–9 P.M. daily), on Colegio Militar next to Hotel Maria Bonita, along with icy fresh fruit paletas (popsicles). Pushcart vendors sometimes sell paletas around town. Nevería Rocco (Hidalgo btw Centenario/Juárez), a small shop in a pink house, sells Carnation ice cream and paletas.
When the tacos and beer catch up with you, head to Pura Vida (tel. 612/169-2095, www.posadadelmolino.com, 8 A.M.–5 P.M. Wed.–Mon., mains US$4–8) for healthier fare. Located inside the Hotel Posada del Molino, this tiny store stocks local organic eggs, soy milk, Sprouted brand breads and tortillas, Brown Cow yogurt, desert honey, herbal teas, and a limited selection of Asian foods. Order a smoothie or panini and enjoy the patio setting.
La Esquina Farmers Market takes place 9 A.M.–noon Wednesday mornings. Vendors sell organic produce, artisan cheeses, tamales, handicrafts, and more. On Saturdays a similar market tales place at La Cañada del Diablo.
For a bottle of top-quality, made-in-Baja wine, browse the shelves at La Bodega de Todos Santos (Hidalgo btw Juárez/Militar, tel. 612/152-0181, 11 A.M.–7 P.M. Tues.–Sat.), where Mac and Alexandra, distributors of boutique Baja California (Norte) wines to local restaurants, now sell directly to the public as well. The shop carries wines from Bodega Barón Balch’é, Mogor Badan, Viñas Pijoan, Vinisterra, Victor Torres Alegre y Familia, and others. Inside the shop, you can view a map and photos of the wine country and ask the owners about this relatively undiscovered grape-growing region. Prices are reasonable, starting at about US$15 per bottle. On Mondays 5–8 P.M., Mac and Alexandra pour tastings and wines by the glass, with local cheeses and tapas from local restaurants. Pick up a bottle of olive oil cultivated in the Valle de Guadalupe while you’re there.
© Nikki Goth Itoi from Moon Baja, 9th Edition